Hi there, I'm new to this forum and have a 2014 Ford Escape 1.6t with a front passenger ball joint that is bad and learned that you have to replace the entire control arm. Does anyone know what the torque specs are for the bolts that connect the control arm to the frame and also the pinch bolt. I can't find anything online for the 2013+ escape torque values? Thank you.
Perspective
Kudos for being torque sensitive.
Ball-joint pinch bolt: 83 Nm
"NOTICE: Tighten the suspension bushing fasteners with the suspension loaded or with the weight of the vehicle resting on the wheels and tires, otherwise incorrect clamp load and bushing damage may occur." (I used a floor-jack under the ball-joint to fully-load mine while the car was on jackstands at all four corners)
Through Bushing fastener (front of lower arm): 80 Nm + 360* (one full rotation)
The four fasteners, two upper, two lower, holding the 'strap' around the rear lower arm bushing (upper also holding the stabilizer-bar bushing): 115 Nm + 90* (one-quarter turn)
FYI the WSM shows all of the mentioned fasteners to be 'single-use - replace if removed'.
I don't mind looking up a few items on my WSM CD since we have the same year (don't hesitate to PM me), but FYI since you're into DIY: Workshop / Service Manual Sources
Edit - Be sure to support the wheel knuckle lest you allow the halfshaft to droop and exceed the CV joint max angle of 40* beyond which CV joint damage will occur. Lacking the restraint of the lower arm the remaining in-place upper suspension will tend to push everything out-board - check to ensure the halfshaft has not pulled even slightly out of the tranny case when you reassemble (suggest you inspect the halfshaft at the tranny case before disassembly to see what the 'fully-home' condition looks like, it's held in place by a spring-clip on the end of the halfshaft inside the tranny).
Hope that helps, have fun!
Ball-joint pinch bolt: 83 Nm
"NOTICE: Tighten the suspension bushing fasteners with the suspension loaded or with the weight of the vehicle resting on the wheels and tires, otherwise incorrect clamp load and bushing damage may occur." (I used a floor-jack under the ball-joint to fully-load mine while the car was on jackstands at all four corners)
Through Bushing fastener (front of lower arm): 80 Nm + 360* (one full rotation)
The four fasteners, two upper, two lower, holding the 'strap' around the rear lower arm bushing (upper also holding the stabilizer-bar bushing): 115 Nm + 90* (one-quarter turn)
FYI the WSM shows all of the mentioned fasteners to be 'single-use - replace if removed'.
I don't mind looking up a few items on my WSM CD since we have the same year (don't hesitate to PM me), but FYI since you're into DIY: Workshop / Service Manual Sources
Edit - Be sure to support the wheel knuckle lest you allow the halfshaft to droop and exceed the CV joint max angle of 40* beyond which CV joint damage will occur. Lacking the restraint of the lower arm the remaining in-place upper suspension will tend to push everything out-board - check to ensure the halfshaft has not pulled even slightly out of the tranny case when you reassemble (suggest you inspect the halfshaft at the tranny case before disassembly to see what the 'fully-home' condition looks like, it's held in place by a spring-clip on the end of the halfshaft inside the tranny).
Hope that helps, have fun!
Thank you for the torque specs and tips. I was planning on loading the control arm with a floor jack so thanks for reasurring me that I'm using the correct procedure. I will have to run to Ford and see if they have the fasteners.
I will likely be needing to get the service manual but really needed to do this job on a budget this time.
Really appreciate your response. I am torque sensative when it comes to parts that impact safety, especially in my wife's car.
I will likely be needing to get the service manual but really needed to do this job on a budget this time.
Really appreciate your response. I am torque sensative when it comes to parts that impact safety, especially in my wife's car.
No worries, have fun, please let us know how it goes and share any tips you pick-up along the way (I'm sure all will be fine).
Late PS - not especially a fan of HF but if you've got one near this made the job a lot easier, worked like a charm and didn't break https://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html
Suppose you can use a pickle-fork since you're not 'saving' the rubber joint-boot in your case.
Yeah, that puppy was firmly stuck even with the pinch-bolt removed and there's a captive sheet-metal tab covering the slot to discourage attempts to spread it manually which is risky anyway (cast metal, you know the drill).
Suppose you can use a pickle-fork since you're not 'saving' the rubber joint-boot in your case.
Yeah, that puppy was firmly stuck even with the pinch-bolt removed and there's a captive sheet-metal tab covering the slot to discourage attempts to spread it manually which is risky anyway (cast metal, you know the drill).
I'll definitely post once I'm done. I purchased a pickle fork the other day and it worked great separating the ball joint. I did take the rotor and shield off and that allowed the pickle fork to come from the side of the car with good leverage and it gave me extra working space. That's when I realized the ball joints weren't replaceable but you can sure order them from the parts stores, lol.
Im planning on doing both sides but I'm waiting on the drivers side because I had to send it back as it came with a boot that was torn. I have bad luck ordering parts from a certain online company but the prices are always right. At least I have the control arm for the bad side.
Im planning on doing both sides but I'm waiting on the drivers side because I had to send it back as it came with a boot that was torn. I have bad luck ordering parts from a certain online company but the prices are always right. At least I have the control arm for the bad side.
Lol, RockAuto by any chance? They aren't perfect but they keep making it right so keep getting my business in spite of the occasional hiccup and time delay.
Yeah, you guest it. I'd say half of my orders have something wrong but it's not their fault. Received brake pads without hardwear, wiper missing one clip that happened to be the one I needed, and the control arm boot ripped but like you said, every time they fix it. Each time it's seems to be a manufacture issue which they can't help. With the wipers, I played phone tag with Bosch for several days trying to get the clip until I gave up and contacted Rock Auto. Rock sent me a new wiper and told me to keep the other one. Well, in the mean time Bosch gave up too and sent me two wipers. I felt bad because I don't like playing companies to get free stuff but I knew I did everything I could.
I've just learned to order parts when I know I might need them soon. Plus, their parts are half the price for much better brands.
I've just learned to order parts when I know I might need them soon. Plus, their parts are half the price for much better brands.
Alright, I'm at a stopping point with the bad control arm off and thought I would right some FYI. This is from the perspective of someone who doesn't have an impact wrench or a lift.
Take the wheel well plastic out as it will make the job easier. Also, for the same reason take the caliper and tie it up and remove the rotor. This will give you some extra room and take some weight off the CV axle.
For the pinch bolt, use a pickle fork or the HB tool Centex referenced above. Be aware, the pickle fork will destroy the boot. I don't think my spindle dropped enough to damage the CV but there really isn't a good or safe way to support it.
For the forward thru bolt that connects to the frame, the nut is welded inside the frame. You will need a long breaker bar. I used a 17" breaker bar and never had to put so much force on a bolt in my life. There is a bumper bracket that attaches to the control arm bracket and Ford didn't provide an access hole. You will need to remove the two screws that attach this bracket to the control arm bracket. If you loosen the other screw that is part of the bumper bracket first you can then swivel it out of the way. If you are using a breaker bar, I recommend removing the entire bumper brace entirely so you can get good leverage from the wheel well. Probably not necessary with an impact wrench.
For the rearward mounting bracket with two bolts, place the round end of a 21mm wrench on the forward nut coming from where the tie rod comes through and turn with a breaker bar from underneath. The wrench will get its own leverage from the frame once it turns a little. For the rearward nut, place the wrench on the nut coming from behind the cross brace. Once the nuts are removed, do yourself a favor and jack the spindle up enough to get the sway bar bracket off of the control arm bracket. The control arm will slide right out.
I don't recommend working underneath or in the wheel well with the jack putting any amount of pressure on the spindle as it could take some pressure off of the jack stands.
Take the wheel well plastic out as it will make the job easier. Also, for the same reason take the caliper and tie it up and remove the rotor. This will give you some extra room and take some weight off the CV axle.
For the pinch bolt, use a pickle fork or the HB tool Centex referenced above. Be aware, the pickle fork will destroy the boot. I don't think my spindle dropped enough to damage the CV but there really isn't a good or safe way to support it.
For the forward thru bolt that connects to the frame, the nut is welded inside the frame. You will need a long breaker bar. I used a 17" breaker bar and never had to put so much force on a bolt in my life. There is a bumper bracket that attaches to the control arm bracket and Ford didn't provide an access hole. You will need to remove the two screws that attach this bracket to the control arm bracket. If you loosen the other screw that is part of the bumper bracket first you can then swivel it out of the way. If you are using a breaker bar, I recommend removing the entire bumper brace entirely so you can get good leverage from the wheel well. Probably not necessary with an impact wrench.
For the rearward mounting bracket with two bolts, place the round end of a 21mm wrench on the forward nut coming from where the tie rod comes through and turn with a breaker bar from underneath. The wrench will get its own leverage from the frame once it turns a little. For the rearward nut, place the wrench on the nut coming from behind the cross brace. Once the nuts are removed, do yourself a favor and jack the spindle up enough to get the sway bar bracket off of the control arm bracket. The control arm will slide right out.
I don't recommend working underneath or in the wheel well with the jack putting any amount of pressure on the spindle as it could take some pressure off of the jack stands.
Sorry I didn't mention that though it's shown in the WSM control-arm R&R procedure.
Torques for the bracket fasteners FYI:
Two horizontal bolts: 25 Nm
Single vertical bolt: 48 Nm
Centex, thanks again for the help. Got everything back together and it's nice, tight, and smooth again. It's actually one of the more fun jobs I've done on a vehicle because it required more finesse and strategy than usual.
For others that do this job some more FYI for installation. When you go to put the control arm back on, there are three sets of holes for two bolts that must line up for the rear bracket to be bolted. They are the control arm bracket, the sway bar bracket, and of course the frame holes. Use a rubber mallet to get the control arm bracket lined up enough to get the bolts thru. Then, from underneath the car, push with your hand on the sway bar link, and it will hopefully magically line up. It really is all about finesse with this car. Enjoy!
For others that do this job some more FYI for installation. When you go to put the control arm back on, there are three sets of holes for two bolts that must line up for the rear bracket to be bolted. They are the control arm bracket, the sway bar bracket, and of course the frame holes. Use a rubber mallet to get the control arm bracket lined up enough to get the bolts thru. Then, from underneath the car, push with your hand on the sway bar link, and it will hopefully magically line up. It really is all about finesse with this car. Enjoy!
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