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ECM shot? Stuck in "high heat warning"

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49K views 64 replies 10 participants last post by  lee2013ford  
A failed ECM (PCM) is waaaaaay down the list on the diagnostic procedures for resolving that list of DTCs.

There are more sensors involved in those systems than those you list; disconnecting sensors is not a valid / appropriate diagnostic test in most cases as you have (perhaps) now learned; there are many more bona-fide underlying problems (not sensor failures) that are quite possible if not more likely reasons for your issues.

You can get a competent mechanic to conduct proper diagnostics, you can (perhaps) DIY using the WSM and TSBs to guide proper diagnostics, or you can continue an unstructured hit-or-miss parts replacement game and hope (against the odds and with great likelihood of more wasted money, IMO) you get lucky.

Workshop / Service Manual Sources

Just sayin'
 
Like the attempted pre-post 'diagnosis and repair', this thread is a disordered and incomplete mess. It'd be funny if it were fiction.

How 'bout the OP try again, starting from zero and providing vehicle stats (miles, how long with this owner, etc), a numbered in-sequence list of all the problems, attempted fixes, codes found, etc …..

Then y'all comment working from that new list

Just sayin'

(following the thread is a diversion, but I've seen this forum tragi-com before, it gets old)
 
More just FYI, limited excerpts from the WSM ….

"A strategy called Fail Safe Cooling is built into the PCM that will control the engine if it starts to overheat.

Fail Safe Cooling has two modes: A ‘Closed Loop’ mode that relies on CHT sensor and an ‘Open Loop’ mode that relies on ECT sensor. When the engine starts to overheat, the decision to go into closed loop or open loop mode is made based on sensor availability and sensor failures. Closed loop mode takes priority over open loop. The reason is that a good CHT sensor is able to reliably track engine block temperature at all times, while the ECT sensor will fail to do so when the engine coolant is dumped
."

…..

"Closed Loop Mode

Stage 1 of the strategy commences if the engine starts to overheat. The CHT sensor transmits a signal to the PCM , which moves the temperature gauge pointer into the red zone.

If the engine is not switched off and the temperature continues to rise, the Powertrain Check Lamp is illuminated. This indicates to the driver that the engine is approaching critical limits and should be stopped. At this point DTC P1285 is set in the PCM which can be retrieved using a scan tool.
"

…...

"Open Loop Mode

This mode is entered when the ECT sensor indicates a high engine temperature that is rising at a dangerously high rate, much faster than expected based on current engine running conditions. This mode can also be entered when all sensors used in Fail Safe Cooling determination are failed.

When this mode is activated, the PCM will restrict load, and restrict engine speed to below 3000 RPM, then start ramping engine speed down slowly to as low as 800 RPM and hold the speed there.

At the same time, the PCM will also move the temperature gauge pointer into the red zone and the P1285 code is set
."
So, among other things, we see that the PCM may move the dash temp gauge based on input from either the ECT or CHT sensors.
Heaven forbid, given the free availability of youtube, that anyone hell-bent on DIY problem solving would spend $25 to access the extensive 1.6 engine cooling diagnostic and testing section 303-03A in the WSM, which covers many more aspects of the system than have been broached here (ever think there might be an issue with the solenoid-controlled coolant bypass system, among the many other things potentially pertinent to the symptoms reported?) o_O

..... following with popcorn in hand ..... it's at least as good as a 3-stooges replay .....
 
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