[Tinmender1963]

I have the H & R springs on the rear of my 2017 Titanium and love the improvement on handling. I have yet to tackle the front after reading about the fitment issues. If I read your post correctly, you used 2013 front struts on your 2016 with the H & R springs and this solved the issue that others had posted about rubbing. If you could, update us on how this has worked out for you one month later.

 

[Tinmender1963]

UPDATE: Upon attempting to install the front springs from the H&R 51603 set on my 2017, I found that the strut tower assembly was changed across the entire Ford lineup that shares the platform. I have not uncovered as to why, but Ford went to a smaller diameter spring and that is where the issue lies. I should have known this as I have seen this with the Focus ST as well. I do plan on purchasing the correct springs for the front (H&R 51603-2) and will then have complete set of 2013/early 2014 springs for sale at a very reasonable price.

 

[Bull1tt]

Anyone with a 2014+ who has installed the H&R Springs . . . What was your actual drop front and rear? I'm a little disappointed in the results of my 2017.

 

[Tinmender1963]

My rear dropped approximately 1 13/16". I have not tackled the front being that I have the incorrect front springs. I like the level look of the way it sits now, but would like to lower another inch. I may end up trimming the rear springs and purchase the adjustable rear arm so it can be aligned properly. The front, well I will probably modify the strut tower once I install the proper diameter springs.

 

[Damon Stewart]

Just placed an order for the H&R 51603-2 springs. Since the struts need to be removed I'm going to replace them with Bilstein B4's and rear shocks to match. Side note, new Flow One Race Spec F1 wheels on the way as well.

 

[murcod]

Just placed an order for the H&R 51603-2 springs. Since the struts need to be removed I'm going to replace them with Bilstein B4's and rear shocks to match. Side note, new Flow One Race Spec F1 wheels on the way as well.

You can get B6's for the rear, but you might have to order them from the UK. The part number is 24-156530.


Be careful with the B4 struts for the front as I notice Bilstein specify the same part number for 2013 through to 2016. The design was changed around late 2014 IIRC. The spring tapers to a smaller diameter coil on both ends for the post 2014 models. People have used the earlier model springs to get around it, but you've already bought the later model lowered springs.



https://www.bilstein.com/us/en/prod...=4050365326053705778&ModelId=4814247727425571095&SubModelId=8539511097302975473


https://www.bilstein.com/us/en/prod...=4050365326053705778&ModelId=4814247727425571095&SubModelId=8539511097302975473

 

[Damon Stewart]

Thanks for the note on the front struts. I read through a few threads that mention this. Ill be able to verify proper spring fit and return the struts if needed, or perhaps the springs and get the 2013 springs.


The OEM damping is just fine with me so I would prefer the B4's over the B6's. I suspect the B6's may make the ride a bit more on the firm side. After putting 167K miles in a RAM 3500 I'm enjoying not being beat up on every little bump in the road.

 

[murcod]

If you return the springs for the earlier model you can then fit Bilstein B6 struts..... Ford Kuga, Bilstein-Shop.com



A few people have done it. I've only fitted the rears, but would have liked to have done the front struts as well.

 

[Damon Stewart]

Got the rear springs in, waiting on the Bilstein parts to arrive before I do the front.


With the rears springs alone, the front/rear is very near level with the front ever so slightly higher.

 

[Damon Stewart]

Looks like I know what I'm doing this weekend. Yes, I have the 2013 springs to match the B6 struts.

 

[murcod]

Post up how you go with the front struts fitting. Some people say there's a tab or something that gets in the way and needs to be removed?


The B6's in the rear of mine have actually made the ride smoother and more comfortable over badly made roads.

 

[Damon Stewart]

My findings thus far.


H&R rear springs, supper simple to install. Lowers the rear to almost perfectly level it out with the stock front springs. The rear did ride slightly more harsh, however the body roll is significantly reduced.


Replaced the OEM shocks with Bilstein B6's. Very easy to install, I found one of my OEM shocks was shot, low on oil and the top 1/3 of the travel was useless (only 41K miles). I was a little concerned the B6's would make the ride even more firm, but not not so at all. Matter of fact, the ride quality improved markedly. The B6's appear to have both much faster high speed damping and slower low speed damping. The rear now rides much smoother over sharp edge bumps and pot holes but yet rolling bumps that would cause the rear to bounce or rebound no longer do. LOVE IT!


I ran in to a problem with the fronts, forgot to order new rubber spring pads that interface between the struts and springs. Unfortunately I didn't figure that out until I had one strut out and fully apart . So I put it back together and have the rubbers on order, now I cant wait to do the fronts! One other note when changing out the 2014+ struts with the 2013's, the brake line retention on the strut changed from a clip style to a bolt, so have to modify the brake line bracket to properly secure it to the earlier model strut. I'm just going to bend the bracket 90deg and drill a hole to bolt it to the vertical part of the strut bracket. The brace around the line fits nicely in the opening on the strut bracket.


If the front ride is improved as much as the rear I will be very happy. More next weekend.

 

[murcod]

I was a little concerned the B6's would make the ride even more firm, but not not so at all. Matter of fact, the ride quality improved markedly. The B6's appear to have both much faster high speed damping and slower low speed damping. The rear now rides much smoother over sharp edge bumps and pot holes but yet rolling bumps that would cause the rear to bounce or rebound no longer do. LOVE IT!

That's exactly what I found. I was very nervous about fitting them after reading some older posts suggesting the ride would be harsher- that's definitely not the case. I wish there was a B6 direct fit for the front struts.



PS: You need to keep going and fit a larger rear sway bar now.

 

[Damon Stewart]

The rubber seats did not show up yet, but I was able to install the Hardrace adjustable rear camber links (sold as Megan Racing from Carid). After installing the rear H&R springs, the rear camber was near -4 deg. Using a $16 camber gauge from Amazon a level and straight edge on my garage floor, I was able to get it back to about -1 deg + or -. Much better, this will get me buy until the front is done then I will take it in for a proper alignment.


Link to adjustable links (if you order the links from Carid, these are what you get);
HARDRACE GLOBAL - REAR CAMBER KIT ?8836


The worst part was getting to the T60 inner link bolt. Had to stop by Harbor Fright tools and pick up a 1/2" drive T60, used a 1/2" universal and an extension just the right length.

 

[Damon Stewart]

Front is finally done! Just like the rear, the Bilstein B6 struts did not make the ride more harsh or even more firm. Rather, they smoothed out the ride and absorb sharp edge bumps much better than stock while providing better damping. They are not a simple direct fit, but not hard to make work if your mechanically inclined. The locator tab does need to be trimmed about 3/4 to 1", dont forget to order 2013 spring pads, the bump stop and splash boot will no longer fit due to the larger dia stanchion tube, need to make a small modification to the brake line retention bracket to work. That's about it. The ride quality is way better than stock, less harsh but less floaty at the same time, gives you the feeling of riding in a BMW or some other higher end car, very refined kind of feeling. The H&R springs with the B6 struts and shocks really make this a great road driving touring car.

 

[murcod]

@Damon Stewart , I wonder why your rear camber was thrown out so far, 4 degrees is a lot? Mine was out a bit (I don't know the exact figure), but the aligner commented it was of no concern and easy to compensate for by adjusting the toe.


I'm surprised the front Bilsteins didn't come with a new bump stop/ dust boot to suit. Are you running them with no bump stop? Some of these look like they may fit- the centre hole looks a similar size to your Bilstein strut? https://www.buycarparts.co.uk/ford/kuga-i/33338/10472/shock-absorber-dust-cover-and-bump-stops


There's a Russian site here which shows them being fitted onto the TE Kuga they were designed for. The person has enlarged the bottom grey circular clip that secures the bottom of the dust boot, but doesn't show if the OE bump stop would fit or not? https://www.drive2.ru/l/464202815204491457/

 

[Damon Stewart]

@Damon Stewart , I wonder why your rear camber was thrown out so far, 4 degrees is a lot? Mine was out a bit (I don't know the exact figure), but the aligner commented it was of no concern and easy to compensate for by adjusting the toe.


I'm surprised the front Bilsteins didn't come with a new bump stop/ dust boot to suit. Are you running them with no bump stop? Some of these look like they may fit- the centre hole looks a similar size to your Bilstein strut? https://www.buycarparts.co.uk/ford/kuga-i/33338/10472/shock-absorber-dust-cover-and-bump-stops


There's a Russian site here which shows them being fitted onto the TE Kuga they were designed for. The person has enlarged the bottom grey circular clip that secures the bottom of the dust boot, but doesn't show if the OE bump stop would fit or not? https://www.drive2.ru/l/464202815204491457/

The rear already had more than -1 deg before lowering best I can recall and only judging by eye to where it is now. Mine is purely a paved road going car, it wont see much dirt or mud and it never rains here (really), so I was not worried about ditching the dust boot. I've taken it over some decent speed bumps at speed, no issues without the bump stops, not worried about it at all. The damping is so much more controlled than the stock struts you would need to jump it before needing the bump stops.

 

[murcod]

Hopefully they never bottom out on you.



I can now access locally 2018 Kuga ST Line parts as they've just introduced them here. They come lowered from the factory with various suspension mods. The struts should be better for use with aftermarket lowered springs, but I can imagine how much they'd cost... Various sites say the suspension is lowered, bushes from the Focus have been fitted, larger anti roll bars front and rear etc.

Ford has treated the Kuga to a reworked suspension setup. The car sits 10mm closer to the ground, while body roll is reduced through the corners thanks to thicker anti-roll bars. The power steering system has also received attention, which Ford says should help deliver “a tighter, more responsive and sporty feel”.

https://www.carwow.co.uk/news/ford-kuga-st-line-complete-guide-3072


To me it seems to sit more than 10mm lower- especially at the rear.

Once I locate one at a dealer I'll measure the front and rear sway bars.

 

[wiz043]

I just want to lower the rear by about 1.5" with H & R lowering springs or whatever so the distance from the top of the tyre to the wheel arch is the same as the front mainly coz it annoys me that the height is different and the front of the car always looks to be 'pointing down hill'...
I do not know much about the suspension setup but does this make sense and can it be done without replacing other suspension parts and will it affect handling and ride comfort much?
I would imagine most suspension specialists could do this and the wheel alignment would have to be redone?
Thanks for any advice from others who have done this...

 

[murcod]

I've taken it over some decent speed bumps at speed, no issues without the bump stops, not worried about it at all.

@Damon Stewart FYI I was talking to a Bilstein Engineer and questioned the need for the factory bump stop on the strut. He said the B6 strut contains an inverted mono tube shock- the visible chrome "tube" is actually the body of the shock and the shaft/ bump stop is inside the strut. So no need to run the factory bump stop and it explains the large diameter of the chrome section compared to the factory strut. I did get dust boots supplied with mine, which cover the chrome body (similar to the factory boot minus a bump stop.).