Do the lo beams work in the regular ON position? Were there any codes or messages? If not, check your headlight fuse.
If that is ok, it may require further diagnostics. It would be helpful if you could provide us with the year and model (S, SE, SEL Titanium) then someone on the thread may be able to help you further. There are differences from year to year and models.
Regarding your phone, whatever caused the headlights to malfunction may have caused a hiccup in the sync system while it was booting up. Delete the phone from the Escape's menu, and delete the Escape from your phone's Bluetooth menu and re-pair it.

No over the river and thru the woods for us this year, 😷 but still thankful for our family...and Zoom!

 

If you do a search on the forum for "low beams" you'll probably get enough information to understand your predicament. There's been a good bit posted on the topic of Escapes that find themselves with high beams only.

 

I found this:
The high beam solenoid in the headlamps default to the low beam position. Is it just one side or both? If it is both, I would suspect either your high beam switch or the BCM, especially if they both got stuck at the same time. As an easy way to check if its the switch or BCM, I would try to have someone turn your headlights on and off while the car is not running but in Accessory mode, if you listen near the headlight, you should be able to hear the solenoid click when the light switch is moved from on to off, if you can hear the clicking you have probably ruled out the high beam solenoids. Good luck and keep us posted!
Thanks for the advice. I will try to listen for the click and hope it's not the BCM.
Happy Thanksgiving to you and yours.

 

Chrisgb - thanks for the response. Sorry, it's a 2017 Titanium. They do not work in the regular ON position either. I did not see anything on my display regarding code or message - is that what you mean?

Zoom indeed! Hunkering down with the hubby over a turkey breast and football.

 

The high beam solenoid only unmasks they upper portion of the HID lens, with that system the low beam never turns off when the high beam is engaged. (There is no-solenoid if the vehicle has conventional headlamps).
This means this wouldn't cause the problem, however a bad switch, broken wire or blown fuse would..
Your friend here is a simple cheap voltage meter, check and see if you have power on the low beam pins.
I have seen it happen before where both bulbs on a car go out at the same time, it happened on the neighbor's Tacoma a few months ago.

 

I have a 2019 Ford Escape SE and the low beams don't work. Lights are good, fuse good, relay good, no voltage on low beams and voltage on high beams(used multimeter). I have worked in electronics for years and don't know how far I should go considering this seems to be a Ford problem considering all the treads(from 2013 up to present with same problem), I have my wife drive with parking lights on and flood lights and for now it's enough but she is not a fan. I don't think I should have to pay $1000.00+ to trouble shoot and let someone else guess and hope they guess right. You would think by now Ford would have stepped in considering it seems to be a manufacturing problem. I'm just stumped and frustrated. Hope I can find some help considering it seems to be such a common problem. Any help is good help. Thanks 👍

 

Thank you! I will take your advice!

 

Here is a link for the various year fuse boxes (the one under the glove box and in the rear cargo area are the primary and secondary BCMs).
Depending on year you have 2 or 3 fuses to check.

Fuse Box Diagram Ford Escape (2013-2019)

Fuse box diagram (location and assignment of electrical fuses and relays) for Ford Escape (Kuga) (2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2019).

fuse-box.info

.
One other possibility would be the sun load sensor in the center front of the dash, other earlier models when it failed the headlights didn't turn off. In the current models it controls the auto dim of the dash and Sync screen as well as the auto lamp/DRLs.

 

Thanks again. The hubby bought some lamps and we'll try that today. If that's not the solution, we'll try fuses next. I really appreciate the help. My model year is 2017, so covered by your link.

 

Can you tell me what happened, or what the issue is? I have the exact same problem. Both low beam are not working, The high beam are working though.

 

Sorry to bother you I’m dealing with the same problem with the headlights on my wife’s escape did you figure out what happened to yours? Thank you

 

Check the fuse under the glove box. #74. Check your manual if its the correct fuse number. We have a 2018 SE model. There is only one fuse for headlights. If the fuse is busted, change it. That is the first thing that i checked. Next, check the bulbs. For us it’s the bulbs. I put on my old bulb and it worked. I guess i bust both low beams when i jumpstarted the car.

 

my wifes 2013 escape started throwing a low beam fault code and the passenger side was out while driving. i just replaced hi and lows with sylvania led they work fantastic when the car is off but as soon as you fire the car up both sides now shut off. and its still throwing the code.
does that mean its the bcm and a 800$ fix?

 

I encountered the "intermittent low beam" issue on my 2013 Ford Escape Titanium. After reading this and other blogs, I concluded that it sounded like there was a high probability I needed a dealership repair of a new Body Control Module which would cost $800 to $1,000. I could not bring myself to pay that much to turn two light bulbs on when I want them on. Thus, I devised my own solution converting from the factory HID low beam lights to halogen lights using an aftermarket 12V relay. I outlined the entire conversion in a video found at

. The repair cost me less than $100 and a few hours of time. The low beam lights work properly using the switch to turn light on and off. If you have the mechanical aptitude to tackle the repair, it is a pretty easy and inexpensive repair.

 

Same issue here. My radio also quit working....

 

I've been around Fords since the early 1970s and even with the 2013MY+ the issue isn't common.
Thing to remember about everything Ford since 2013 is that it's logic driven so troubleshooting starts with using a scan tool and reading the DTCs.
Your issue can be anything from a blown fuse, to a bad head lamp switch or it can be a bad BCM,
The days of power for the head lamps running through the head lamp switch are long gone.

 

Ever figure this out?