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gear lube RDU "rear drive unit"
As I read it ford calls for standard gear lube not synthetic 80/90
Synthetic is 75/90 weight
I would much prefer to use 100% synthetic
Yep, I used the 80/90 per the manual. I'm sticking with the factory spec since I can't get a full flush.
 
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I believe this kit was released as part of a TSB on certain locking rears. It appears also to be used as an upgrade kit if doing overhaul.

For vehicles with symptoms including shudder, chatter, grinding, banging, popping, clicking or binding from the RDU at any time, or inadequate torque at the rear wheels, check the parts catalog using vehicle identification number (VIN) for base part 4A232.

If clutch assembly part number is not listed in the catalog this message does not apply.

For VINs which a kit is listed, see removal and installation for Active Torque Coupling Clutch.
 
I believe this kit was released as part of a TSB on certain locking rears. It appears also to be used as an upgrade kit if doing overhaul.
No, not locking rears. This RDU is very common (more common actually) in Fords line-up without locking rear differentials. Lets not confuse people, in spite of this being the internet.

The active torque coupling in our Escapes is very much a serviceable part. Why Ford switched gears(pun intended) and came out with this service entry instead of replacing the whole RDU (like my 2013 WSM states) is probably because the service calls started piling up with old RDU's piling up as well, costing Ford a bunch of money.

You have to remember just how many vehicles these units are in. We are talking ALOT of vehicles.
 
Wow...can't find it in all parts catalogs, but the coupling doesn't look expensive at all. Can't find it at Tasca or Autonation to see how much it can be discounted for some reason.

2014 Ford Escape Rear Differential Clutch | FordParts.com

I was freaking out when my wife's Sienna blew the rear diff, thinking it may be the coupling. At the time the coupling was a $1,200 part, and the differential was about the same. You can buy both for the Escape for around $700 brand-new, part S-150-D.
 
Tasca has already been listed in this thread by @centex. Might not be the exact part, but the base number is the same.

http://www.tascaparts.com/oe-ford/2l8z4a232aa

Also, you have to remember the big picture, and that is labor. Even though the whole RDU is like $800, to replace it requires removal of rear half shafts, rear sub frame, basically the whole rear end. To service the ATC just requires the drive shaft to be disconnected.
 
Tasca has already been listed in this thread by @centex. Might not be the exact part, but the base number is the same.

Clutch Assembly | Genuine Ford | 2L8Z-4A232-AA : Genuine Factory OEM Parts & Accessories | TascaParts.com
If you look down on the left-hand side of the page you can see "This part fits:", with a list of compatible models. This coupling is for the '01-'06 Escape.


Also, you have to remember the big picture, and that is labor. Even though the whole RDU is like $800, to replace it requires removal of rear half shafts, rear sub frame, basically the whole rear end. To service the ATC just requires the drive shaft to be disconnected.
Yup, looks like 5.5 hours for that job, which in most places will cost almost as much as the part.
 
No, not locking rears. This RDU is very common (more common actually) in Fords line-up without locking rear differentials. Lets not confuse people, in spite of this being the internet.
Wrong choice of wording on description. Maybe similar to the old TRACTION-LOC as opposed to the DETROIT LOCKER?
 
Wrong choice of wording on description. Maybe similar to the old TRACTION-LOC as opposed to the DETROIT LOCKER?
Please allow me to expound upon my mis-use of terms.

The way this is designed (RDU) is to transfer engine torque between the front drive and rear drive of an AWD vehicle under differing road conditions/driver demand. The terms EQUA-LOC and DETROIT LOCKER have no meaning for this technology.

I will now retire to the front porch while the old woman is making up some bacon and beans and watch the sun go down.
 
Area you trying to verify the correct PN for your application or wanting to actually buy it?

You may need the I.D. No. off the diff asm.

The PN pages/catalog found online are only very brief versions of the actual FORD CDP. You might want to call TASCA and ask for info (also ask if they can E-Mail a .pdf of the actual diff parts breakdown ill. from the CDP).
 
Area you trying to verify the correct PN for your application or wanting to actually buy it?

You may need the I.D. No. off the diff asm.

The PN pages/catalog found online are only very brief versions of the actual FORD CDP. You might want to call TASCA and ask for info (also ask if they can E-Mail a .pdf of the actual diff parts breakdown ill. from the CDP).
Thanks, but I have confirmed the correct part number. As far as ID, if you look back in this thread you will notice that this has been discussed in detail. Basically, if a new Active Torque Control is installed, on the side of the housing is a laser etched 4-digit code that must be programmed into the appropriate modules including the PCM.
 
Area you trying to verify the correct PN for your application or wanting to actually buy it?....
So far I thought this was just a low-key gearhead discussion / sharing of info about the general workings, serviceability and PM of the RDU ..... haven't seen any mention of anyone actually needing to R&R anything in the assembly.

In part prompted by the early editions of the '13+ Service manual lacking any detail on service of the ATK and discovery by @HayaiKuruma that more info is now available about service of that particular section of the RDU - making for some cool chit-chat.

Regardless of the PN for a specific application ATK, I for one find the relatively low-cost for this component interesting - would not have been surprised to find it much more expensive. Perhaps that's a function of the "economies of scale" touted in the article in this post
All-in-all, just an interesting tech discussion with (thankfully) apparently no one here having any current problems that need solving.

Knock-on-wood ;)
 
First video I’ve seen about the actual replacement of the coupler. This procedure is in my 2017 workshop manual. Seems somewhere along the way Ford thought this is a better solution than replacing the whole RDU, which I agree with. I think this procedure showed up in the Ford WSM around 2015 or 2016.

 
First video I’ve seen about the actual replacement of the coupler. This procedure is in my 2017 workshop manual. Seems somewhere along the way Ford thought this is a better solution than replacing the whole RDU, which I agree with. I think this procedure showed up in the Ford WSM around 2015 or 2016.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=oD96cDyktB0
Nice find! Doesn't look like a bad job, but tough access getting to that connector. I imagine anyone with a reasonable experience working on things to get this one done.
 
Spot on. I would think there's more rear bias especially in dry conditions.

I wonder if the drive screen updates fast enough to show more instant front-bias when the front wheels 'plow' on a very slick surface when making those turns? I may be wrong but am guessing that if the sensors show the front to be 'plowing' when it senses differential front/rear wheel speed it may adjust that rear-heavy torque bias in those situations. Lol, not a 'test' for the street, maybe for a wet skid pad at the local track ;-)
Shifting torque to the front wheels will INCREASE understeer, or "plowing" as you put it.
You'd want to shift torque to the outside rear wheel to help the car rotate around the corner.
 
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