Any idea if this, like many TSB, is 'covered' during the 5yr/60,000 mile powertrain warranty (or longer ESP term), but borne by the owner if beyond that?

Or, is there indication of some extended coverage?

Knocking on wood along with you.

 

Wait for me, I'm also joining the knocking on wood party.

 

I wonder what the real cause of failure is...Bad coolant, bad head gasket, bad block, poor assembly..??? Seems too random to pin down....

 

Since it's not a recall I'd suspect that it would only be covered under the usual powertrain warranty. Very interested to read more about this, but not much seems to be out there yet.

 

Right now all I know is what you folks have read in my original post. Beyond that,what is worrisome is that issues are cropping up across parts of Fords lineup relating to ecoboost engines. Maybe some of you saw my post asking @markboris about his RS. He was one of the early folks to purchase one and it seems the early builds are having head gasket/coolant leak issues. No reason to panic, but due diligence in finding the facts is in order.

Back to real world testing, my Escape has over 115,000 miles on her. I have done one drain and fill of the coolant at around 75,000 miles. Going to do another this spring. I have never had an overheat issue. Only thing I noticed is after my drain and fill I would keep topping the reservoir off and i would notice the level ends up a little less than the minimum line. I chalked it up to the system self-leveling out and draining from the overflow what it doesn’t need after self-burping. All this per the workshop manual.

And to note, as far as I know, no members of this forum with the 2.0 have reported issues. That’s a good sign.

 

Right now all I know is what you folks have read in my original post. Beyond that,what is worrisome is that issues are cropping up across parts of Fords lineup relating to ecoboost engines. Maybe some of you saw my post asking @markboris about his RS. He was one of the early folks to purchase one and it seems the early builds are having head gasket/coolant leak issues. No reason to panic, but due diligence in finding the facts is in order.

Back to real world testing, my Escape has over 115,000 miles on her. I have done one drain and fill of the coolant at around 75,000 miles. Going to do another this spring. I have never had an overheat issue. Only thing I noticed is after my drain and fill I would keep topping the reservoir off and i would notice the level ends up a little less than the minimum line. I chalked it up to the system self-leveling out and draining from the overflow what it doesn’t need after self-burping. All this per the workshop manual.

And to note, as far as I know, no members of this forum with the 2.0 have reported issues. That’s a good sign.

When you did your coolant change, where did you drain it from??.. When underneath I couldn't see a radiator drain or engine block drain plug....Did you use OEM coolant or the best aftermarket you could get?? Thanks......

 

Don't tell me Ford is going rename their ECOBOOST engines! ....................Ecoboom ?

 

This is what happened to my engine. Running rough and on the 3rd trip in the dealership finally contacted Ford and were told to run the test described above. This led to replacing the block with a remanufactured one on a vehicle with 33,000 miles that is 18 months old.

Needless to say, my Ford fandom is pretty much dead at this point.

 

Did they give you any reason why this problem occurs??..Manufacturing defect of block, assembled incorrectly, bad coolant, any clue??..Did you ask why they gave you a remanufactured one instead of a new one??

 

aren't the 2016 and under and 2017 and over 2.0L engines totally different?

 

Yes, that was what I was thinking. It seems to include the "all new" twin scroll turbo version.

 

To my knowledge they only replace with a brand-new engine if the vehicle is within 12 months/12,000 miles of the initial in-service date.

Which, IMHO, doesn't matter for anything. A well rebuilt engine is functionally identical to a brand-new one. I'd have every bit as much confidence in a rebuilt engine as one straight out of the factory.

 

Thanks Tinman, At least now we have some idea what the problem could be..Poor block manufacturing...Now is it where the blocks were made, if there's more than one..??

 

Good question. One of the reasons I had to wait is because there were some in front of me.

 

2019 Ridgeline

 

Tinman , You deserted the ship!!!!....You must have made a quick trade in...

 

The 2.0 in my 2017 was made in Mexico.

 

That is interesting because I remember when I picked up my car, which was straight from the factory, on the drivers side window was a small sticker that said the engine was made in Mexico, but I remember reading they were now made in Cleveland..So when I got home under the hood and on the passengers side on the block is the sticker where and when the engine is made, and sure enough, was made in Cleveland in June of 2017....So I would check your sticker on the block..Does this mean engine production hopped from Spain to Mexico to Cleveland???

 

Is "where" an engine is "made" or "produced" (? "assembled" ?) necessarily the same thing as where the block is "cast"? Just wondering since "porosity" is mentioned and that would be related specifically to the "casting" process at a foundry.

"Casting", "machining" and "assembling" all being very different processes that might not occur under the same roof but each might bear on a block-related issue?

Nothing surprises me any more about how the individual pieces in a car are shipped to-and-from-hither-and-yon-around-the-world to make a complete car (or major sub-assembly), so just wondering given the "where" trend of this conversation.

Noting that the labels relating to where something is "made" or "produced" seems to be a very 'political game' of percentages (i.e. maybe less than intuitively obvious) for various reasons that sometimes seems hard to link to the genuine 'place of origin' of any single piece in a car or major sub-assembly.

 

Centex hit it on the head, there are all kinds of examples of engines cast in a completely separate location. Sometimes by a different company, as well.

The example off the top of my head is the Tupy foundry in Brazil who makes the CGI blocks for the 2.7L EcoBoost, as well as the 3.0L and 6.7L Powerstroke diesels.

Does anyone have any information on this? I can't find anything online about where the 2.0L blocks are cast. Might be at the assembly plant, but it also might be somewhere completely different.

 

I haven’t noticed the stamping on the engine. I bought my 2017 in late Nov. 2016. The window sticker listed the country of origin for the engine as Mexico.

 

Mel,, take a good flash light or drop light and crouch down a bit,, you should see it on the passenger side, just below the valve cover and above the drive belt....Its not a stamping, just a label

 

KY.BORN
I found the label and sure enough it was made in the USA. The label is printed with Cleveland Engine Plant 06 Sep. 2016. Why in the world would FoMoCo list the country of origin as Mexico on the window sticker?

 

My '17 SE, built in Louisville, Sept 23, 2016 also had the country of origin parts sticker showing 15% Mexican content and the engine source as Mexico. Folks here pointed me to the engine window sticker which says Cleveland Engine Plant and a build date only 1 day before the Louisville Build date.

 

Yes , that is the $99k question we are trying to figure out...Where does this Mexico sticker come from, when they were made in Cleveland??...

 

Guess what. I received a multiple cylinder misfires on my 2017 2.0L Ford Escape (12,000 miles) on my FordPass app. I went to check the error with my OBD 2 sensor using the Tourque app and it came back with the error P0300. I took it to the dealer and they ran 2 coolant tests. One for 4 hours and the other for 6 hours. They told me that it wasn't a coolant issue. Few days later I call back to check on the status and they told me they are getting me a brand new engine and waiting on information on which version they were going to send me. Seems like one is easier to install then the other. Engine came in this past Friday and should take 1 week to install. Once I find out what the exact problem they tell me I'll post. Hopes this helps anyone having the same issue.

Ohh sticker Louisiana if I'm not mistaken. I think it was assembled there. I'll double check next time I see it.

 

What version of Engine??

What engine came with your vehicle, that is what they should give you, unless there's something new coming out...equal or better to your org...

 

Not sure what you mean what version of the engine. Do you mean the old one getting replaced? Or the new one? If you are asking which new one I'm getting then I do not know that yet. All I know is there is 2 versions of the 2.0L Ecoboost engine (twin scroll turbo). For all I know it could be a 2017 or 2018 version. That's me just guessing. As soon as I found out I'll let you know.

 

Well you should getting the same 2.0 twin scroll...why would it be otherwise?? Your the one who said,, "What version am I getting".. read your own post..

 

Well you should getting the same 2.0 twin scroll...why would it be otherwise??

I never said it wouldn't be anything other then a 2.0L Ecoboost engine. All I said is there are 2 versions of the engine from what Ford Service told me. What 2 versions of this engine I'll find out soon. I explained all this on my posts. You can read it all there. Lol!

 

I want to read this of another 2.0 available..Could be something new...

 

I'm fairly sure they're talking about different ordering options.

Short block = crankcase, pistons, and rods

Long block = The above with heads and turbo

Complete engine = the above with valve covers and all the other bits and pieces.

Obviously the complete engine is easier to install, but the other options may be cheaper depending on labor rate to swap components.

 

This is too funny. The dealer is simply referring to the 2.0 before 2017 and the new twin scroll 2.0

That's my guess because I know how some Ford dealerships operate. It's really not funny but kinda sad.

I don't understand any of this. The dealer has all the tools at their disposal to look up all the info on this vehicle. So sad.

 

the latest engine is a 2 scroll turbo 2017-2018
The older engine is a single scroll turbo 2013-2016

 

Mark me down as one of the victims. I had a 2017 Titanium 2.0 that started developing a P0302 at just over 20k miles. Vehicle was in and out of the dealership about 5 times with "fixes" that would reset the CEL but come back sometimes within a few hours or days. Dealership would throw parts at it in attempt to repair: ie: spark plug, coil, software updates, etc. to no avail. Finally it was established that one of the cylinders was taking in coolant. Fix was to replace engine but engine was on backorder for quite some time. Was told it was ok to drive until new engine made it in, that lasted approximately 3-4 days after diagnosis, when the vehicle wouldn't start at all one evening. I'm unsure if the engine was actually hydrolocked at that point or if the starter was bad.

Be on the lookout if you have some of the symptoms I was experiencing. I had a rough idle at initial COLD start up, intermittently. You could hear the misfire and feel the roughness for approximately 5-10 seconds and then it would smooth out and show no other signs of a misfire other than a CEL if it logged enough instances of the issue. Occasionally on remote starts, you would see an excess of white smoke (definitely not condensation). Keep an eye out on the coolant overflow reservoir as well, mine was completely empty.

 

How low of RPM would be considered rough idle at statup? I just started noticing on my 2016 2.0L EB the RPMs dropped to 550RPM 2x in the last 1.5 weeks.

 

Ok I have an update. The complete engine swap is done and it's a brand new engine not remanufactured. The gentleman in the service department thought that I got a remanufactured until he brought it up in the system. It's a new third revision of the engine long block most like of this year since he has never seen a third revision.

It was done alot quicker then I thought. The original engine I had was a short block and this is now a long block but they do absolutely make 3 revisions on the 2.0L twin scroll turbo charged engine. If it helps on the paperwork I could be wrong but the the engine is J2GZ-6006-C (the C means it's the third revision of the engine.) Driving it does feel a little more peppy and aggressive.

I hope that helps anyone who might get this problem. Also the official reason it was misfiring was low collant top off and found collant intrusion when they removed the coil and plug. Also cylinder and block warped.