I did this on my 2016 2.0 Ti. Easy peasy. Used the EverStart Platinum AGM 94R battery. I was able to use the original battery tie down as it slipped right between the vent caps once the handle was removed. All I had to do was remove the airbox and intake tube. Battery cover fit no problem and I used an Autel MaxiCOM MK808S scanner to reset the BMS. Took about an hour.

 

Need to replace the battery in my 2011 Escape XLT. Could I use a Duralast Gold 124R-DLG, 700 CCA (875 CA)?

The battery was purchased at Autozone in January and was used in another vehicle for about a week (long story). Since I have no other use for it, I was thinking I may be able to use it for the Escape.

To compare, for the 2011 Escape, Autozone suggests a Duralast Gold 96R-DLG, 590 CCA (735 CA).

 

Need to replace the battery in my 2011 Escape XLT.

Hi, welcome to the forum.

This forum only covers Escape models from 2013. There's a different forum that covers your model, where you should be able to get help - www.escape-city.com .

 

I've been told it might be possible to tweak the existing bracket to gain some length, but it would look hack.

You're better off buying the proper bracket. You don't want the battery coming loose in a serious accident.

Will I need to replace the negative connector?

Only if it's corroded. You may be able to see it with the battery cover removed, using a flashlight (before you pull it apart.)

Do I have to update the BMS?

It will help the BMS operation. Since I changed my battery (reset the BMS and updated to the newer size) Sync 2 seems to be staying on longer and not timing out at around 15 minutes.

 

It will help the BMS operation. Since I changed my battery (reset the BMS and updated to the newer size) Sync 2 seems to be staying on longer and not timing out at around 15 minutes.

Thank you for the info.

I forgot I don't have a key ignition. Only push button to start. Is there a BMS reset process available via the push button ignition?

 

I posted in this thread just before the new years (thanks for the help replies), but had to pause on the battery replacement. Now ready to proceed.

I got an H7 (94R) from Walmart. (Everstart Platinum AGM).

Will be using the opening the front of the battery box method, but may end up taking the cowling off as well.

However I forgot some details on the bracket, negative connector, and updating the BMS.

QUESTIONS:

1. Is it confirmed I'll for certian need the the DV6Z-10718-A bracket? If so, any recommends on a reliable supplier?

2. Will I need to replace the negative connector?

3. Do I have to update the BMS? (although I got an AGM, my car is not start/stop)

Earlier in the thread the Key method to reset the BMS was mentioned. And I recall reading up it, but forgot the process.

I didn't get a OBD2 code scanner device yet. I still plan to get a wireless scanner and install FORscan, but that will have to wait. Need to get on with battery swap.

Thank you for your assist.

 

I posted in this thread just before the new years (thanks for the help replies), but had to pause on the battery replacement. Now ready to proceed.

I got an H7 (94R) from Walmart. (Everstart Platinum AGM).

Will be using the opening the front of the battery box method, but may end up taking the cowling off as well.

However I forgot some details on the bracket, negative connector, and updating the BMS.

QUESTIONS:

1. Is it confirmed I'll for certian need the the DV6Z-10718-A bracket? If so, any recommends on a reliable supplier?

2. Will I need to replace the negative connector?

3. Do I have to update the BMS? (although I got an AGM, my car is not start/stop)

Earlier in the thread the Key method to reset the BMS was mentioned. And I recall reading up it, but forgot the process.

I didn't get a OBD2 code scanner device yet. I still plan to get a wireless scanner and install FORscan, but that will have to wait. Need to get on with battery swap.

Thank you for your assist.

And to add, you won't need to replace the negative connector or BMS unless yours are corroded. The only new part needed is the hold down bracket.

You'll have to reset the BMS just like you would for any battery change.

 

I just replaced my Motorcraft 96R battery with a Costco Interstate H7 AGM battery.

Already mentioned, but you'll need to replace the OEM battery bracket with a DV6Z-10718-A hold down bracket.
The handles on the new battery did not need to be removed. They just folded down and the bracket fit right over them.

You'll need to remove both the front and rear plastic spacers in the battery box. Once the battery is in, there's no room for it to go anywhere, and the bottom lip of the battery sits against the edge of the box. The battery itself doesn't touch the sides of the battery box, so there should be no concerns about the fuses in the front panel.

You will not be able to put in this H7 battery using the cowl method. The size of the battery and the angle means you will have to remove the air box to get it in. I assume this would be the same with the H6 battery. I already had the cowl off when I discovered this. I would recommend taking the cowl off anyway so you can get clear access to everything and see the BMS connector.

So it's a little more hassle to install an H7 than the OEM battery, but seems worth it for only $60 more. I don't see any reason to install an H6, as it's the same price as an H7.

Edit:
Forgot to mention, after replacing the battery, the only thing I had to change was the clock. And relearn all the window auto up/down things. All the radio and phone settings remained intact.
Weirdly, my fuel display for distance to Empty showed about 200 miles before changing the battery, but showed 380 miles to E afterward. This came down on its own as I drove the next few days until it was accurate.

 

I put an H7 in this fall when it was time for replacement with no issues. Just took my time with everything. Removed cowl. Remove spacers. Got the battery cover back on and everything is secure. Was able to do the battery reset via the key method and it worked. Took a couple of times, but I got it to work.

 

Which brand of battery did you get?

 

I had no problem fitting the front back on with the clamps, although I unscrewed the negative from the body to put the battery in and out without removing the cowl. I just bought the battery at Walmart, they're the cheapest and all batteries come from one of a few companies, likely who supplies your Walmart supplies other stores in your area, I'd just get H7 since it's the same price as H6, just pop both spacers out of the box and use the new hold down bracket and it'll should go in easy. Although you have a 2.0 EB, so I think there's a little more disassembly required to take the battery out the front than on my dad's 2.5L.

 

I bought the new DV6Z-10718-A battery hold down bracket, and this week I'm going to pick up a new H7/94R (the biggest battery), or an H6/48 (the second biggest).

For those of you that put in a bigger battery, can you answer some questions?

Which size and brand of battery did you go with?

The H7 will need the DV6Z-10718-A bracket and both spacers should be removed, correct?

The H6 will need the DV6Z-10718-A bracket and only remove the rear spacer? Or is there a new spacer to order?

For either battery size, were you able to fit the front and battery cover on with no problems? Or did you have to trim the battery clamp bolts or something else?

 

I bought the new DV6Z-10718-A battery hold down bracket, and this week I'm going to pick up a new H7/94R (the biggest battery), or an H6/48 (the second biggest).

Don't forget you can update the battery size in Forscan.

 

You can try to mod the clamp but it's only like $10-15 for the right one, and if I recall the modded clamp doesn't bottom out on the housing like the proper 2016+ stop-start clamp does. If you live outside the US and the right clamp is hard to procure, if you can find a group t7 battery you could use that with the stock clamp, as the T group sizes are the same length and width as their equivalent H group sizes but the same height as the 96R, I wouldn't recommend using a T7 in the US since only the parts stores carry them and parts store batteries are expensive, I generally get batteries from Walmart since all batteries come from 1 of 6 companies and generally the parts stores use the same suppliers as the parts stores for a given region.

 

Here's mine with everything removed for access.

if you can find a group t7 battery you could use that with the stock clamp, as the T group sizes are the same length and width as their equivalent H group sizes but the same height as the 96R

Yes, I think that's the equivalent of the battery I ended up getting. It's the same height as my original battery but longer. I just had to lift out a spacer in the battery box- that Ford fitted at the factory- to fit it in. It's a Varta F18 that I ended up with. 585 200 080 | Varta Automotive

 

"I took the handles off the battery, and the clamp fit fine.

I stopped by one of the major Ford dealers, to check on the BMS.
Service desk sent me back to another level person.

He told me they change lots of batteries every day, for years and years, and never reset, or looked for a BMS. It is not in their service manual. Said set it if you want, but it has nothing to do with charging. Just a marker, like a date reminder, as in other reminders.

Also they change, and customers drive away. No setting 8 hours.

He said if it was important to the life of the battery, it would be in the owners manual, and be in big letters on every battery that has a warranty."

​

You need to steer clear of that dealership.

 

When I bought the Group 48 AGM 760 CCA ,I needed a new hold down bracket
I bought new one for the group 48 battery from a ford dealer.
the cost was $11.00. The original front battery cover fits fine.
the back cover near the firewall doesn't

 

To put an H6/48 you need to replace the box spacers with the ones from 2016+ models with stop start.

 

I have a 2013 Se with the 1.6 engine. Can this write up be applied to that configuration?

 

As far as I know the ecoboost engines and the N/A use the same battery box the only difference is that the ecoboosts require more disassembly to get the intake out of the way to get to the battery, that or you need to remove the wiper arms and cowl, but other than the battery being a little more involved to get to. pop the spacers out of the box, and buy the 2016+ with stop/start hold down and you should be good.

 

Tools/parts needed: 10 mm crescent wrench, 10 mm & 13 mm sockets/wrench, replacement battery (see discussion for size) and a cold beer

Approximate time required: 30 min

Quick discussion about batteries: All of the 2013 Escapes come standard with a size 96R battery. It's one of the smallest batteries (in terms of cranking amps, reserve capacity, & weight) that you can get [I'm referencing the Duracell Automotive Battery spec sheet - these are the batteries sold at Sam's club].



In other words, the stock battery sucks. I assume Ford was saving some money with the 96R battery, but the good news is that the battery tray can accept a larger battery without any cutting, drilling, or any other permanent modifications. And who doesn't want more cranking amps and reserve capacity? Especially if you run a lot of accessories (remote start, tow, lights etc.)

So how big can I go?? The simple answer is that a size 94R (H7) fits without any trouble. See the pictures below for the relative size comparison. I'm using an AGM battery, but a normal flooded battery should fit just the same.




Battery removal/replacement:

1. Turn off the car and and prop the hood open. Locate the battery cover and air intake which houses the air filter. Remove the battery cover and disconnect the positive wire using a 10 mm wrench. Pop open the air intake as if you were replacing the air filter, but don't remove the air filter. Just disconnect the wire plugged in at the top and move the cover to the left so it's out of the way. (The plug is easily removed by pushing the red plastic piece back with your finger nail about a quarter inch, then pull the entire plug backwards.)



With the air intake out of the way, you should be able to access the 4 black plastic plugs (green arrows in the picture). Pull all four of these plugs out. Now you should be able to lift the front cover of the battery tray about 1 inch so that it has some free movement. With the cover lifted up about 1 inch, you should be able to access the two wires that are attached on the bottom left of the cover (red arrows in the picture). Use a 10 mm socket and a 13 mm socket to remove the nuts and then slide the wires off. I've already removed the 10 mm nut in the picture below. Don't drop the 13 mm nut; it's not attached to the wire like the 10 mm one!



Now you should be able to move the battery tray front cover out the way to the right like this:



Before we can move the battery, we need to loosen the clamp holding it down. Remove the two nuts that are holding the metal clamp (green arrows in pciture). The bar can then be lifted off the bolts.



Pull the battery forward and lift it over the edge of the tray. Don't worry, the negative wire should be long enough, but keep an eye on the small wire plugged into the negative terminal (green arrow in picture). Don't put excessive tension on this small wire. Now you should have enough room to use your hand to unplug the small wire from the side of the negative terminal. With the small wire out of the way, the battery should come forward all the way, and you can use a 10 mm wrench to remove the negative terminal.





Remove the old battery from the vehicle.

The empty battery tray should look like this. Note the two plastic adapters that Ford added to accommodate the smaller battery (green arrows). Remove both of these plastic pieces. The rear piece easily pops out by hand. The piece in the front needs to be gently pried upwards.




Congratulations! Now your Ford Escape can accept a "real" battery.



Now get your replacement battery and essentially reverse the process. If you are using the larger 94R (H7) size battery, you may need to remove the handles if it has any so that the metal battery clamp can fit nicely in the center groove. I've included more pictures below of the new battery being installed.







Now that you're finished, you can relax and enjoy the cold beer.

have you installed the battery cover with a new battery?

 

Thanks blufeb95 for the note.

 

I replaced the 96R battery in my dad's 2015 2.5L Escape today. Someone above mentioned buying the 2017+ bracket but they mentioned the wrong battery bracket, you need to order the one for cars with stop/start which is part DV6Z-10718-A. I used an Everstart Platinum AGM H7 battery, they now have a 4 year replacement warranty.

 

View attachment 80683
View attachment 80682
I replaced the 96R battery in my dad's 2015 2.5L Escape today. Someone above mentioned buying the 2017+ bracket but they mentioned the wrong battery bracket, you need to order the one for cars with stop/start which is part DV6Z-10718-A. I used an Everstart Platinum AGM H7 battery, they now have a 4 year replacement warranty.

My first post. Thanks for the info/photos! Same battery arriving on my doorstep tomorrow. Good price for entry level AGM with a 4-year warranty. (My just over 2-year old 96R NAPA battery with 2-year warranty will no longer take a charge. And attempts to jump start car futile. I presume discharged too many times). QUESTION: For the H7/94R battery Is that replacement bracket required even if the handles are removed from the battery? Appears others have manipulated the existing bracket to fit. Been reading battery replacements threads in this forum. So much info to digest.I'll re-read to double check. Thanks to everyone posting! I want to check the high current MegaMax fuses in the "pre-fuse" box in the front of the battery box. So will use the airbox removal method to replace battery, so I can access/test those fuses. But may also end up removing the cowling if I'm unable to get my wrench/socket way back there to remove the negative cable and the current sensor on the negative terminal. Hopefully I can do the BMS reset without purchasing an ODBC II device and installing ForScan on phone/laptop, but will do if required. Have my voltmeter to do some testing as well (check for current drain, ground issues, etc). Car has 100K miles on it. I still need to read up on all the TSB's for this model and eventually take to dealer for recall service.

 

EZclap

 

 

this look like a good fit?

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/extreme/more-powersport/battery---automotive/battery---best-fit/7272aa5cfedd/super-start-extreme-battery-group-size-94r-h7/ssb7/94rext

bought it anyway. had trouble starting last 2 days

 

I was not even aware of BMS or reset process. I replaced batteries on my 2013 Escape (in 2018) and 2014 Focus (in 2019). I don't know what the long term consequences will be without performing this BMS reset. Though, I will remember to do this procedure in future.

 

There is a lot of existing information here on how to reset the BMS. No need to post it again in this thread

 

Idk, unless it was entered into post 1. These long threads get really convoluted and you’d have to read the entire thing. I don’t even know if I saw the forscan bms reset procedure in this thread. I think it was in the forscan one. There needs to be a document with forscan commands like other vehicle forums have. Otherwise the answer is 1 random post in 1 random thread and is not helpful or Easy to find :/

 

I used forscan to reset the BMS. it was a easy option to do aka not having to know the hex etc values. I could post a screen cap once I get home in a day or 2. Also since it is not module change I think this can be done with the free forscan version.

 

I agree is section 414-00 of the 2013 workshop manual there is a "Battery Replacement" Paragraph that states the BMS must be reset using the diagnostic scan tool. Unfortunately the workshop manual doesn't have this statement at the end of the battery removal / installation procedure. In simple terms an overlook (not performing) of the BMS reset will likely shorten the life of the battery.

 

Thanks for this thread, I found it very informative. I made video of myself changing the battery in my 2014 escape with a larger 94R battery. It shows some tips of things I learned when I did mine. I hope you guys find it useful: Ford Escape 2013-2019 Battery Change (Install Larger Battery)

 

Thanks for taking the time and effort to do this video but to me it is a toss up between this method and the cowl removal method as to which is the biggest nightmare.
I think either method should only be attempted by someone skilled and with a lot of patience and most importantly with the correct tools including what is needed to reset the BMS.

Thank god this is only required once every 3 to 5 years normally and in my case it will be off to the Ford dealership regardless of cost... ?

I notice the latest Ford Escape battery is located in an accessible position. Why the heck could they not have done that in the first place with the same motor? I cannot think of any other vehicle that has the battery hidden under the windscreen cowl although I have no doubt someone here will enlighten me...

 

Maybe they should read the manual?

BMS = Battery Monitoring System, the suite of sensors, electronic modules and computer program that determine battery condition and provide data to other systems which manage the charging rate and load-shedding (battery saver) features in the '13+ Escape.

Hopefully the "diagnostic and labour" charge you incurred included the requisite BMS reset, IMHO very likely if your replacement was done by a (competent) Ford dealer.

Clipped from the workshop manual:

Battery Replacement

If the vehicle battery is replaced, it is very important to perform the battery monitoring system reset using the scan tool. If the battery monitoring system reset is not carried out, it holds the old battery parameters and time in service counter in memory. Additionally it tells the system the battery is in an aged state and the (sic) may limit the Electrical Energy Management system functions.

^^ In that context "scan tool" refers to the genuine Ford diagnostics device used by dealers. The BMS data is held in non-volatile memory (it is retained even when the battery is disconnected)...

 

My 2014 I replaced this last weekend with the Super Start Platinum AGM 94r. I thought, and read this thread a lot.
My battery was fine, but last winter it barely got me going several times.

My main reason for changing size, is the little battery is only available as a basic battery.

I took the handles off the battery, and the clamp fit fine.
I stopped by one of the major Ford dealers, to check on the BMS.
Service desk sent me back to another level person.
He told me they change lots of batteries every day, for years and years, and never reset, or looked for a BMS. It is not in their service manual. Said set it if you want, but it has nothing to do with charging. Just a marker, like a date reminder, as in other reminders.
Also they change, and customers drive away. No setting 8 hours.
He said if it was important to the life of the battery, it would be in the owners manual, and be in big letters on every battery that has a warranty.

 

He told me they change lots of batteries every day, for years and years, and never reset, or looked for a BMS. It is not in their service manual.

A bit late but if your dealer needs a tip, the BMS reset requirement and explanation of why it is important / how it relates to actual charging system performance is stated in the following section of the 2014 Escape Workshop Manual:

• 414-00 Charging System - General Information - System Operation and Component Description (see subheading "Battery Monitoring Sensor")

The basic requirement for BMS reset upon battery replacement is restated in this section of the WSM:

• 414-01 Battery, Mounting and Cables - Removal and Installation - Battery (See final step, "If installing a new battery …..")

There will always be techs and dealerships who fail to actually read model-specific Service Procedures to keep themselves apprised of the always evolving requirements of modern vehicles, especially for things they assume are wrote procedures, like battery replacement. Their customers suffer as a consequence.

Doing something the same way "for years and years" doesn't make it right. I can assure you that the above mentioned dealer who "never … looked for a BMS" also didn't see, on many vehicles they serviced over the years, the obvious small negative terminal module with 2-wire connector that's found on the Escape. Their failure to seek understanding about the 'why and wherefore' of that 'new and obvious' module speaks volumes about their laziness, complacency, and incompetence. IMO