Yup. Much less machining is required.Sorry about confusion on my part. I appreciate you explaining things, it is making more sense now. I jumped on YouTube and watched some clips on Open, Semi Open, and Closed blocks. The open block is the least desirable, but is the cheapest method.
What's the situation when Ford do that? I know most (probably all) dealers in my area wouldn't have the facilities nor probably techs with the required experience to do an engine rebuild. Are they getting external companies to do the engine rebuilds?Ford: "Probably a short block."
I was under the impression in my case that it was a mechanic on staff and not out sourced. I was told the mechanics had done enough of the engine replacements that they were getting real good at doing the job. It did not make me feel good at all about the situation. I have about 3,000 miles on my Escape since the rebuild. So far no issues at all. I have been keeping a close eye on the coolant level and oil level, so far the levels on both have not changed.What's the situation when Ford do that? I know most (probably all) dealers in my area wouldn't have the facilities nor probably techs with the required experience to do an engine rebuild. Are they getting external companies to do the engine rebuilds?
I don't have any reason to believe that they are having external companies do the work. I don't live near a large metropolitan area that would have much of a selection when it comes to finding someone who would be better equipped to handle such work.What's the situation when Ford do that? I know most (probably all) dealers in my area wouldn't have the facilities nor probably techs with the required experience to do an engine rebuild. Are they getting external companies to do the engine rebuilds?
The found broken head bolt may be a significant clue as to part or all of the failure mechanism.I don't have any reason to believe that they are having external companies do the work. I don't live near a large metropolitan area that would have much of a selection when it comes to finding someone who would be better equipped to handle such work.
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Do you know if it involves over or under tightening of this bolt? Or is it some other inconsistency during assembly or manufacturing?The found broken head bolt may be a significant clue as to part or all of the failure mechanism.
Could be the bolt. Could be over tighten. It does point out one of the many sources of problems that can occur with engine manufacture.Do you know if it involves over or under tightening of this bolt? Or is it some other inconsistency during assembly or manufacturing?
I sure hope it can be narrowed down and does not require a complete redesign of the engine.Could be the bolt. Could be over tighten. It does point out one of the many sources of problems that can occur with engine manufacture.
My guess is that Ford knows all the details but are not saying.I sure hope it can be narrowed down and does not require a complete redesign of the engine.
That is the way I read it as well. In this case a specific bolt may not have been to spec or it was initially overtorqued. Both potential problems are just two possible causative factors on engine failure. Root cause? Who knows? Maybe Ford if anyone.The head bolt broke while being torqued to spec on the new engine- it wasn't on the old engine that failed. Hopefully they fitted a new head gasket after (apparently) partially torquing the head down?
Recently, Ford decided to ONLY replace the short block. Reusing the original head will result in more things to go wrong upon reassembly. Some mechanics will forget to transfer the 2 dowel/pins aligning the Engine to the Tranny. This will result in the FLEXPLATE cracking. The symptoms will be a crackling noise at idle. Ford has stated the Flexplate must be replaced when replacing a short or long block. I do not think they know , that the missing DOWELS caused the Flexplate failure. The 1.6L and 1.5L are another Ford disaster. The 2.0 ecoboost has similar issues, but not as often...……………. Makes you wonder who is designing these engines.Update on my Escape...I called the dealership for an update and was told "You need a new engine." Me: "Short block or a long block?" Ford: "Probably a short block." I'm supposed to call them back if I haven't heard from them by Wednesday.
2019 Ford Escape 1.5L Ecoboost engine. Purchased April 2019. Has 30k miles (95% highway). Just learned engine needs replacing due to coolant leak. Here is the symptoms history:
- Note: I never received any error messages warning of low coolant level!
- Almost immediately after purchasing the vehicle I would hear a "gurgling" sound coming from the engine when I came to a stop and had the radio off. I did a Google search and actually found many posts saying this was normal so I thought nothing of it
- January 2020 I received notice to bring my vehicle in for the PCM reprograming. (Note: It took the technician less than 5 minutes to do this)
- Within a day of this PCM reprogramming I had my first Check Engine light show up in the tach display area. The error code was something like P0301- misfire in #1.
- This CEL disappeared after only a few miles after restarting the car
- The CEL would appear about once a week and then disappear. As time went on it became more frequent.
- About one week ago I began to get a Check Engine message in the center info display console regarding the powertrain. Again, this message would appear and disappear.
- In the middle of all of these messages I did notice that sometimes, after first starting the car, it seemed like it was about to stall when I first placed it in reverse.
- Finally, I was sitting in the car waiting for a store to open for about 20 minutes and noticed that I was not getting any heat in the cabin. And I mean no heat. When put the car in gear and drove I got all the heat I needed. Upon doing a Google search this is a well known warning sign of the coolant leak issue.
Because I travel so much I finally had a chance to bring the car into the dealer. A few hours later I was told I needed a new engine due to the coolant leak issue. The dealership told me I had almost no coolant left in the system. I am going to notify the NHTSA. I also would think Class Action law firms would be interested in this issue. I would really like to know more from Marine1 about how he obtained the Premium Maint Plan and also more about the Buy Back program.
I agree!@Hit Dawg....at least Ford offered you a good new warranty on the repair...![]()
Technically I believe you had a cracked steel cylinder liner, not the aluminum block, but the result is the coolant leaks into the cylinder(s) and you need a new engine or partial engine.I have a 2018 and had a cracked engine block