[rarelyrepair]

Just took the plunge and replaced the battery with the Group Size 48 and the BMS reset DID work for me but the key is to PUSH AWAY the left hand control not not pull it toward you. I tested before I replaced the battery as did not want to go to the dealer.

1. Switch ignition on (engine off)
2. PUSH AWAY and release high beam 5 times.
3. Press and release brake pedal 3 times.
4. If successful the battery light will flash 3 times within the next 15 seconds

========
2020 Escape Hybrid Titanium

 

[wiz043]

I know there are videos on this method and another method involving pushing the rear foglight button etc. but there appears to be a difference of opinion here as to whether they really work in doing the reset. In some cases posters here say the methods do nothing.
Even if you get the battery light to flash 3 times does that really prove the BMS is reset...it could mean anything?
Some here have said that you need to do a Forscan check anyway to see if the battery days in service have actually gone back to zero.

 

[Koolhandlinc]

When I have to replace a battery. I always figure the largest battery I can get into the space. Just 2 cents worth.

 

[Terry Taylor]

Here's a quick how to video that I made showing replacing the stock 12v 45AH lead acid battery with a 12v 70AH AGM battery.
Some folks have had issues with the stock 12v battery running down and not being able to unlock the vehicle, or start it by remote, or some to even start it at all, as it is needed to engage the relays for the high voltage battery. Some also get the "Deep Sleep" message in the FordPass app that indicates a low battery voltage for the 12v battery.
Adding a larger AGM battery helps to prevent these issues.
Besides topping up the AGM battery prior to install, it took about 20 minutes.

Edit - The 12 volt battery is under the floor in the rear cargo area. In the Titanium hybrid, the spare tire covers it, so remove the spare tire to see it. In the SE hybrid, there is no spare tire, so you'll see it once you lift up the floor of the rear cargo area. - Edit

Here is the battery that I used because I found one for $125! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008FWCLHU
But any Group 48 AGM 12 volt battery will work.

Edit 2 - Thanks to a tip, I checked with the Ford service department and they said they do need to update the programming for an AGM battery. - Edit 2

Edit 3 - If you want to keep it all Ford, or have the dealer do it, here is the Ford battery:
Part #: BAGM48H6760 (48H6)
https://parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/electrical/battery-and-related-components/battery-7862483-1 - Edit 3

Watched your video and it does not show how to move the hold down screw for the battery. It mentions that it has to be done, but not how to do it.

 

[Colorado_Al]

Watched your video and it does not show how to move the hold down screw for the battery. It mentions that it has to be done, but not how to do it.

Oh. Sorry about that.
It is pretty self explanatory once you actually remove the battery, but for completeness:
To release the existing battery you need to remove a bolt on the hold-down clamp on the right side of the battery at the base. When you remove that bolt, the hold-down clamp comes free. When you install the new battery, you will notice a bolt hole farther to the right of the first one where you removed the hold-down. It should line up with the edge of the new battery, if you are using the correct group 48 size. Reinstall the hold-down clamp in that location.

 

[magnetic157]

So to be clear, the only reprogramming that needs to be done for this mod is to reset the BMS via ForScan?

Just curious, but if this isn’t done, what differences does it make?

My battery has gone “low” to the point it won’t remote start several times already. Once it was so dead I needed to have it jumped.

Only 5k miles - really disappointing.

 

[wiz043]

So to be clear, the only reprogramming that needs to be done for this mod is to reset the BMS via ForScan?

Just curious, but if this isn’t done, what differences does it make?

The BMS reset sets the days in service of the battery back to zero. If this is not done the vehicle technology 'thinks' it is still dealing with the old battery and attempts to charge it accordingly.
If you do not reset the BMS it is possible that some technology may fail or not operate as it should down the the track.
According to Ford the BMS for the AGM battery is reset the same way as the 'normal' battery.
This reset method is actually in the owner's manual page 342 if you do not want to use ForScan however apparently it does not work for everyone.

 

[my2cents]

Thanks @Colorado_Al for the tip. I replaced the stock battery with the larger Group 48. No more “Deep Sleep” warnings and the remote start works from the FordPass app. The deep sleep message was occurring more and more frequently (became an everyday occurrence).

Disappointed in Ford’s lack of a solution. Dealer claims only guidance from Ford is to tell the customer to drive the vehicle more often. I’ve owned my FE 2.5 years and driven 30,000 miles. Seems like enough to me.

 

[Golluk]

I took out the spare to have a closer look at my battery today. Yeah, it's pretty small. I should be driving pretty regularly (almost daily) until next summer though.

 

[PE_DK]

Hello Escape group, just arrived. Thank you for all inputs into this thread. I do not own an Escape, here i Europe, it's Kuga, but apparantly the same car. Mine is Titanium PHEV 22. But we have the same issue with the 12V battery. Also here it seems as Ford know very well the problem, but is not prepared to solve the issue. I have with great interest read through this very long thread. I fully agree to the point of view, that the right thing to do, is to change to AMG battery. In a PHEV, the start capacity is not needed, but a very stable construction, which can deal with a constant charge, decharge, where the AMG is superior to the acid/lead, as supplied. I believe Ford has chosen this for price reason. But 2 questions are still left for me in teh discussion:
1. Why do we see dead batteries? In a "normal car" the battery last for 5-8 years, here less than 2. It must be a systemic error. I have noticed, that my charging voltage (from HVB) is always 15V (14.9-15.1). Many others here has noticed the same. I have read, that a conventional lead/acid battery will be killed if charged continuously with more than 14.7V. As this aspect has not been discussed at all in this thread, is that because you do not think this is an issue? Or just nothing you have given a thought? I do not accept the fact, that Ford apparantly says, that because the battery is installed in aN Escape/Kuga, it is normal that the battery only last 1 year! There must be a systemic failure.
2. You only talk about a much bigger AMG battery. Why? In my thinking there is no need for a bigger battery (as it is not used as a starting battery). None of us, I think, have had capacity problems, as long as the battery is healthy. So Why?
If I say: There is a general mistake somewhere, that kills a std. acid/lead battery much faster than normal. If this did not happen, all would be happy (= having no problems) with the standard 45Ah battery!
Would that be completely wrong?

 

[skalkev12]

I took out the spare to have a closer look at my battery today. Yeah, it's pretty small. I should be driving pretty regularly (almost daily) until next summer though.

 

[skalkev12]

Thank you !!! Colorado_Al for your video. I had to show the Ford service manager your video on how to fit the larger battery into my Ford Escape 2020 hybrid titanium. $223 minus 10% that I had in ford pass points.
This is after 4 Deep sleep episodes in 2 years. latest battery lasted 4 months. Thanks to all for your contributions. Keeping my fingers crossed this will take care of the problem.

 

[Golluk]

I might do the larger battery install eventually. But for now I went ahead and got myself a super cap boost pack to keep in the car. Autowit 2 brand. Plus then I can jump other people without worry of toasting my own cars electrical system.

 

[KirillFordEscape]

Hi guys Can some one explain for me one thing? I replaced my battery, update bms in BdyCM i find value and it looks interesting "Battery state of charge % " Anybody can use forscan for your own escape hybrid and tell for me, which value you have?

http://imgur.com/a/jTkn25T

 

[djsomers]

I got a 2020 Ford Escape Titanium Hybrid in early Dec 2020. The starter battery had to be replaced in Dec 2021 and again this week. The car has been driven just under 13,000 miles. Will this larger AGM battery solve my issues? I had a Prius for 11 yrs & thought the Escape hybrid ran under the same principles but now I'm being told that driving & braking only regenerates charge for the hybrid battery, not the starter battery, which is charged by the alternator. And, that the computers & accessories are powered by the starter battery which is helping drain it. I can't trust that my car will start if I don't drive it 4 or 5 days. What are your thoughts? My dealer Service guy suggested a battery "trickler" charger which I just bought, but the next time I need a new battery, can I put a larger one in the Escape, and how much extra does it cost? Would a larger battery void my Extended Service Agreement? Thanks for your help.

 

[wiz043]

There are many posts on renewing the battery with the larger AGM type and cost if you do a search or scroll back here (refer #112).
That usually resolves the problem. A trickle charger would temporarily solve the issue but you should not have to go down that track with a new battery.
It should not affect your Extended Service Agreement.

 

[kfh000]

hat a
Hi guys Can some one explain for me one thing? I replaced my battery, update bms in BdyCM i find value and it looks interesting "Battery state of charge % " Anybody can use forscan for your own escape hybrid and tell for me, which value you have?

http://imgur.com/a/jTkn25T

Wait a few days and scan again. For those with early death of the standard battery - has anyone checked the configuration in forscan? What happens if you have a standard battery but are configured for AGM battery? I would think overcharging would ensue. If the config does not match the battery type I think ford owes you a new battery and an update to the config.

 

[Duworm]

I own a 2020 escape Hybrid titanium with the original lead acid 45AHr battery. I recently started getting the battery protection enabled message on the console. It went into sleep mode the other day. Nothing worked even the electric system for unlocking the doors. Amazing enough, a loud thumping was coming from the speakers inside the car. There had to be some juice in a battery somewhere. I used the manual key that comes out of the key fob. Opened the door and everything inside was dark. Nothing worked Except for the thumping coming from the speakers. Pressed start and nothing. No horn, no interior lights, nothing. Like the battery had been removed from the car. I read the owner's manual for Jump start connections. On mine, the cap for the positive connector is red. You only need to lift the red cap a little and then rotate it into the empty space towards the front. You do not need to remove the red cap from the car. I am assuming this keeps you from losing the cap.

Anyway, I jumped the Escape from my other car. ALL the dash lights, even the main display that typically appears after you hit the start button came on instantly, again before I pressed the start button. I pressed START and the Escape motor started right up. Drove it for about 15 miles and came home. Turned the car on and off several times and everything seemed fine.

As I was sitting there, I got a message that the car was conducting an upgrade. An hour later, it was downloading a second update. Another hour plus and the car was receiving a third update. I don't know what the downloads were for.

Sence then, the car has sat overnight several times without any further issues and the battery protection enabled message has not reappeared. I am going to start checking voltage at the 12v battery every day to see if I can find a pattern. Why do I have a bad feeling????????

 

[Montana]

I'm going to pull the trigger on this modification. Too many deep sleep errors on the app. Oddly enough, it will still remote start with the physical remote.

So I'll get the ACDelco battery, and an OBD adapter to my phone then follow the steps here. I guess it's worth a shot to follow the steps in the manual to reset as it seems simple enough and I suspect anyone having issues with it might be doing something wrong - but who knows... sometimes stuff like that is just odd. I'll wear my red shiny heels and click them 3 times too.

I'd like to have the OBD2 adapter just in case though and familiarize myself with Forscan if I do plan on keeping the vehicle. But can anyone provide a step by step in Forscan for the reset? I don't see any posts here walking anyone through it or maybe I missed it (pretty normal for me).

Lastly, has anyone noticed any more "power" at their pedal? Meaning not having to feather as much? I solved my dashcam issue by changing parking mode to a 90 second delay because it would stop a recording when the car switched from electric to engine and if I forced it to switch back. So I ended up with a short 10 second clip and then all kinds of wonky stuff like not getting rear camera after that (probably due to a miscommunication between the dashcam and power). But it would be nice if it gave a little more umph off the line instead of forcing the actual engine on because I gave it just that much more throttle. Either way, I'll be happy to just use remote start through the app when I am further than physical remote distance.

But I also ended up dropping parking mode to 1 hour and I think that's a big cause in my issue. It was previously 2 hours. I will probably just invest in a battery pack from BlackBoxMyCar for that in the future to carry over on vehicles. But it does work as it should with the voltage cutoff set on 12.4 - it's just that it's on the highest setting and STILL putting the car in deep sleep. So I'll test that with the new battery too. I just don't want to re-wire everything for a battery pack lol - so maybe that adventure will be on the next vehicle. Same goes for a sub/amp. It's a pretty simple setup to add one since I have the component speakers and only need the adapter plus the battery already being in the back - another possible future mod if I keep it. This battery swap may be the deciding factor but also scared about the massive recall too. Anyways, thanks for any advice and thanks for reaching out to me on reddit CO_AI!

 

[Jaxpony]

Here's a quick how to video that I made showing replacing the stock 12v 45AH lead acid battery with a 12v 70AH AGM battery.
Some folks have had issues with the stock 12v battery running down and not being able to unlock the vehicle, or start it by remote, or some to even start it at all, as it is needed to engage the relays for the high voltage battery. Some also get the "Deep Sleep" message in the FordPass app that indicates a low battery voltage for the 12v battery.
Adding a larger AGM battery helps to prevent these issues.
Besides topping up the AGM battery prior to install, it took about 20 minutes.

Edit - The 12 volt battery is under the floor in the rear cargo area. In the Titanium hybrid, the spare tire covers it, so remove the spare tire to see it. In the SE hybrid, there is no spare tire, so you'll see it once you lift up the floor of the rear cargo area. - Edit

Here is the battery that I used because I found one for $125! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008FWCLHU
But any Group 48 AGM 12 volt battery will work.

Edit 2 - Thanks to a tip, I checked with the Ford service department and they said they do need to update the programming for an AGM battery. - Edit 2

Edit 3 - If you want to keep it all Ford, or have the dealer do it, here is the Ford battery:
Part #: BAGM48H6760 (48H6)
https://parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/electrical/battery-and-related-components/battery-7862483-1 - Edit 3

For your edit 2, are you saying you do NOT need to do the BMS reset?