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It's power always WHAT?
I am going nuts trying to figure that out. I just got a dashcam and don't know beans about hard wiring the camera without opening a can of worms in the process. Thanks...
There's lots of good info if you read through the whole thread. It's really not difficult at all. Once you read through it if you have more specific questions, I'm sure someone can answer them.
 
It's power always WHAT?
I am going nuts trying to figure that out. I just got a dashcam and don't know beans about hard wiring the camera without opening a can of worms in the process. Thanks...
What is meant is that you can plug your dashcam into the cig. lighter socket but it is always powered on even when the engine is off so if you leave your dashcam plugged in whilst parked or overnight it could drain the battery somewhat.
I have this setup but I remove the plug from the cig. lighter socket when parked or overnight etc. and replace it when I commence driving again.
It is fine to operate the dashcam this way but you can also get it hard wired in to bypass this problem and not worry about battery drain.

I haven't bothered hard wiring mine in as I might change vehicle sometime down the track and it is easier to remove the camera if it is just plugged in.
 
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My 2014 Titanium has that large piece of black plastic trim behind the rear view mirror. I had considered cutting away some of the plastic near the bottom to mount my dash cam as others have done, but I hesitated because I wasn’t sure how it would turn out, even with my Dremel. I was also concerned about breaking the piece while removing it, as it feels rather thin. But fear not! After A LOT of browsing through lists of Escape parts I finally found the replacement piece - and it’s only about $10 online (plus another $5 if you need the upper piece, too):

Rain Sensor Lower Cover: CJ5Z-17D550-AD

Rain Sensor Upper Cover: CJ5Z-17D550-AC




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This helps, thank you. I think I will purchase the trim pieces to practice on fitting it to my new dashcam before installing it. I will feel much more comfortable modding a practice piece than I will the original.
 
I have started wiring my dash cam into my 2014 Ford Escape. I have a Thinkware Q800 pro with rear camera and hardwire kit. The Q800 pro has a motion sensor with the ability to record when the vehicle is off, and a continuous record when the accessories/vehicle is turned on. To accomplish this, the hardwire kit has a red (continuous power), yellow (accessory power), and black (ground) wire. I used a ATM fuse tap to tap into fuse F58 for the red wire and a fuse tap to tap into F85 for the yellow (though F87 could work). F58 is a spare, and F85 is listed as "Electronic 15 feed" according to the manual.
 
Discussion starter · #285 ·
I have started wiring my dash cam into my 2014 Ford Escape. I have a Thinkware Q800 pro with rear camera and hardwire kit. The Q800 pro has a motion sensor with the ability to record when the vehicle is off, and a continuous record when the accessories/vehicle is turned on. To accomplish this, the hardwire kit has a red (continuous power), yellow (accessory power), and black (ground) wire. I used a ATM fuse tap to tap into fuse F58 for the red wire and a fuse tap to tap into F85 for the yellow (though F87 could work). F58 is a spare, and F85 is listed as "Electronic 15 feed" according to the manual.
Ya I have a blackvue 2 channel with park mode using the power magic. Similar install.
I ended up disabling the power magic park mode because it was too hard on my battery. We were getting battery low warnings too often.
 
Ya I have a blackvue 2 channel with park mode using the power magic. Similar install.
I ended up disabling the power magic park mode because it was too hard on my battery. We were getting battery low warnings too often.
I also had to disconnect the "power magic" on my Blackvue too for the same reason. Other than that, my Blackvue has preformed flawlessly. :)
 
I have a cheapie dashcam just plugged into my 12V port. I just remove it when parked and the parking mode works off the camera battery which probably only lasts for 4 or 5 hours which is fine and it goes flat overnight which doesn't matter coz the car is garaged then anyway. The camera battery charges up again whilst driving in no time.
 
Ya I have a blackvue 2 channel with park mode using the power magic. Similar install.
I ended up disabling the power magic park mode because it was too hard on my battery. We were getting battery low warnings too often.
The nice thing about tapping into a spare is that if I notice a problem I can easily pull the tap out without disturbing anything else. I appreciate you and MoneyPit mentioning this so I can keep an eye on it.

I did finish my installation. I have the rain sensor on my Escape, which means I have that plastic cover running down behind the mirror. I ended up using a dremel with a drum sander to make a couple notches for the wires to go into the cover and up into the roof to be completely hidden. It looks nice and I am happy with the results. I'll try to report back in a couple weeks with any problems I may or may not have. Depending on how much driving I do with the current lock downs and shelter-in-place rules in various areas, I may try to post video to show the quality.

Because of the lock downs, etc, I may end up disconnecting the red wire on mine anyways. If the vehicle is sitting there too long without being run it may kill the battery. I think the sleep mode is better suited for vehicles that will be ran on a regular basis so the battery can charge.
 
I have started wiring my dash cam into my 2014 Ford Escape. I have a Thinkware Q800 pro with rear camera and hardwire kit. The Q800 pro has a motion sensor with the ability to record when the vehicle is off, and a continuous record when the accessories/vehicle is turned on. To accomplish this, the hardwire kit has a red (continuous power), yellow (accessory power), and black (ground) wire. I used a ATM fuse tap to tap into fuse F58 for the red wire and a fuse tap to tap into F85 for the yellow (though F87 could work). F58 is a spare, and F85 is listed as "Electronic 15 feed" according to the manual.
Which hardwire kit did you buy?
 
Is there a thread for a a rear dash cam install with hardwire options, for a dual dash-cam setup?
You can wire one into the cargo area fuse panel with a fuse tap. That's what I've done. I used a bolt behind the trim for an earth. Then run the cable up through the electrical boot/ gaiter into the hatch (or fix a camera to the interior roof to save the hassle.)
 
You can wire one into the cargo area fuse panel with a fuse tap. That's what I've done. I used a bolt behind the trim for an earth. Then run the cable up through the electrical boot/ gaiter into the hatch (or fix a camera to the interior roof to save the hassle.)
Thanks. But how did you route the long wire that connects the rear camera to the front camera (so it records the rear camera video)?
 
Discussion starter · #293 ·
Thanks. But how did you route the long wire that connects the rear camera to the front camera (so it records the rear camera video)?
the two easiest routes are along edge of the headliner under the trim (where i ran my rear camera cable) or find a rout along the edge of the floor carpet and trim.
 
Thanks. But how did you route the long wire that connects the rear camera to the front camera (so it records the rear camera video)?
So you've got a dual camera dash cam. What I posted works with two separate cams.

I'd try running the cable between the cameras along the floor, but the cable most likely won't be long enough. (A common problem.) If you run it along the roof you need to be very careful as that's the area the side airbags deploy from.
 
Hi Folks,

Trying to wire in a Dashcam (BlueSkySea0906) with Parking Guard,
YELLOW to IGN for recording while vehicle is on,
RED to CONST for Parking guard setting (motion Sensor, time lapse etc)
BLACK to GND

Now, I had this working perfectly on our old car. Fully functional, as described
But I cannot for the life of me, get work function correctly on our new-to-us 2013 Escape SE.
I know my way around with a Multimeter and I've located both IGN and CONST power (from memory I tapped 58 for CONST and 83 for IGN) - Note I have to check these in the morning, will update post.. I gave up trying for tonight.

I have read a few of the other threads, but my Escape doesn't appear to have 'lugs' in the commonly used slots (85 & 87) and a few of the 'lower' # ones..

When I cycle the IGN to reds, I have to physically power up the camera, which I shouldn't have to do.
It appears to work (I haven't left it running for more than a few mins). Once I power down, the Camera stays on for all of 30seconds, then powered down entirely.
I can get it to automatic start up while IGN is off, but only by removing and reconnecting the CONST fuse.
I have confirmed the polarity of my Add-a-Fuses as well to confirm the 'Hot' side is the correct one.

If I connect BOTH Red and Yellow to CONST, I think it stays powered (I didn't wait longer the 5mins) but this isn't much use as my Dashcam only has a 10min loop Max. It also won't trigger 'Parking' mode (Motion detect) and will simply continue recording 10min loops as if I was driving.

Anyone able to provide some help or insight here? I'm baffled why or how I can't get this to work.
I suspect its something to do with the Escape controlling almost everything through the BCM and cutting voltage to certain circuits, but this doesn't really make sense either as I have tested all circuit both with IGN and CONST, even waiting about 10 mins (and locking myself in the car) so the car thinks its the middle of the night.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!
 
Installed a A119 V3 in 2016 Ford Escape
  • Used a Aiofo - Hardwire kit
  • Mounted A119 dead center behind rear view mirror. Stuck the mounting pad to the black shading dots to hide most of the camera. Make sure you have room to allow removal or Cam and USB connector.
  • Used the Mini add a fuse taps
  • Used fuse F87 (15A) - Unused on my Escape but working (no heated steering wheel) - For ACC or IGN - (Only on when truck running)
  • Used fuse F74 (15A) - For High beams. - For VCC+ (Always on) - Used this for 2 reasons. This circuit is not critical if the " add-a-fuse" falls out or stops working. This was an easy way to test circuit. With truck not running, no key in ignition, pull the high beams to test you still have power/
  • The passenger A-Pillar plastic cover is easy to pop off without tools. Pull from top. You dont need to remove it. Open it just enough to run wire behind airbag curtain in clip tray by windshield glass. Don't run wire by rubber door trim. If the air bag curtain was to deploy the wire might get in the way of it unrolling.
  • Mount the hard wire voltage cut off switch to metal bracket on under side glove box frame.
  • Set voltage cut off to 12.4v for parking mode. I heard it is not super accurate with the 12.4v cut off. The escape battery is hard to get to and small so better to be safe.
  • I removed the glove box. Easier to access without working up side down. To screws in top of glove box and 2 bolts under. Super easy.
  • Removed side plastic dash trim also.
Hope this helps others
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