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I got my 2017 FE about 3 weeks ago, stop start has been hit or miss. Today it didn't work at all. Called the dealer to make a service appt. and they said they have been really busy this week, and the earliest appt. is April 4th I will keep you guys updated.
George
 
There are a number of parameters that have to be within range for the auto start/stop to work. Engine has to be in a certain temp range, battery has to be sufficiently charged, climate demands have to be low enough, wheel has to be straight, driver is buckled, and turbo temps have to be cool enough. If there's anything minor that isn't normal, it won't engage. On mine, these are the reasons I've observed when it didn't engage.

  1. Engine is too cold (not warmed up enough)
  2. It's really cold or really hot outside (climate demands)
  3. Steering wheel is turned (wheel has to be mostly straight)
  4. Turbo needs to cool down after operating at highway speeds (engine will stop after a delay)
  5. Driver is unbuckled or doors are opened
  6. Brakes were not completely released for long enough between subsequent stops (it won't work if you creep)
  7. Passenger pressed the disable button

Other than those, if it doesn't function properly the battery is probably bad. If you get a message about needing to shift into park to restart, then you need to have the BCM reprogrammed by a dealer. If the car has any other issues or trouble codes, those should be corrected before you expect start/stop to work.
 
There are a number of parameters that have to be within range for the auto start/stop to work. Engine has to be in a certain temp range, battery has to be sufficiently charged, climate demands have to be low enough, wheel has to be straight, driver is buckled, and turbo temps have to be cool enough. If there's anything minor that isn't normal, it won't engage. On mine, these are the reasons I've observed when it didn't engage.

1. Engine is too cold (not warmed up enough)
2. It's really cold or really hot outside (climate demands)
3. Steering wheel is turned (wheel has to be mostly straight)
4. Turbo needs to cool down after operating at highway speeds (engine will stop after a delay)
5. Driver is unbuckled or doors are opened
6. Brakes were not completely released for long enough between subsequent stops (it won't work if you creep)
7. Passenger pressed the disable button

Other than those, if it doesn't function properly the battery is probably bad. If you get a message about needing to shift into park to restart, then you need to have the BCM reprogrammed by a dealer. If the car has any other issues or trouble codes, those should be corrected before you expect start/stop to work.
That steering wheel parameter is a subtle one! If stopped for a right turn with the wheels turned in anticipation.
Also, any defroster or defroster blend selection will prevent S/S from engaging. Battery load can have an effect as well, even with a good battery. Stopped with lights, driving lights, both seat heaters on, HVAC fan on a higher speed. At a longer stop, e.g., waiting for a train, the S/S may turn the engine back on.
 
That steering wheel parameter is a subtle one! If stopped for a right turn with the wheels turned in anticipation.
Also, any defroster or defroster blend selection will prevent S/S from engaging. Battery load can have an effect as well, even with a good battery. Stopped with lights, driving lights, both seat heaters on, HVAC fan on a higher speed. At a longer stop, e.g., waiting for a train, the S/S may turn the engine back on.
I know my aussie model with the SS will restart if stopped for any length of time to turn the a/c back on so we don't cook in summer I suppose...:)
 
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I Hope My S/S Never Works Again

My S/S stopped working a few months ago and I'm not telling my dealer. :nerd:
I've had my battery and alternator checked and both are OK
 
My S/S stopped working a few months ago and I'm not telling my dealer. :nerd:
I've had my battery and alternator checked and both are OK
Key may be what is the "State of Health" and "State of charge" for the battery. I am finding that if the SOC goes below a certain value that S/S will not engage. For me this is brought on by the low mileage that I put on the vehicle and the fact that most of my trips are short. If I change the battery (Battery Tender) and get it up to about 80% SOC, S/S does work. I willbe checking again today as I charged yesterday evening and have a short trip planned for this afternoon.
 
If either my Escape or F150 is not highway driven, enough to keep the batteries in a high state of charge, the auto stop / start will not shut the engine down. Take a highway trip to get the batteries charged and all works as designed.
 
Key may be what is the "State of Health" and "State of charge" for the battery. I am finding that if the SOC goes below a certain value that S/S will not engage. For me this is brought on by the low mileage that I put on the vehicle and the fact that most of my trips are short. If I change the battery (Battery Tender) and get it up to about 80% SOC, S/S does work. I willbe checking again today as I charged yesterday evening and have a short trip planned for this afternoon.
UPDATE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I did drive yesterday after I had the car on my "battery tender" and charged the battery. As suspected and as I have previously experienced, the S/S function did work! I would surmise that most of the S/S problems listed in this thread likely are due to the simple fact that the battery SOC is low. Quite possibly, as in my case, due to the fact that I know longer put many miles on my car (retired) and what miles I do put on are sort stop and go usually around 40 mph.

One side note that I seem to have discovered is that my "battery tender plus" performs better than a Diehard battery tender with wifi that I recently purchased. The Diehard puts the charge into float mode (monitoring) before the battery tender. I have confirmed this by checking SOH readings from two sources; the Car itself and also a battery tool that I have.
 
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Key may be what is the "State of Health" and "State of charge" for the battery. I am finding that if the SOC goes below a certain value that S/S will not engage. For me this is brought on by the low mileage that I put on the vehicle and the fact that most of my trips are short. If I change the battery (Battery Tender) and get it up to about 80% SOC, S/S does work. I will be checking again today as I charged yesterday evening and have a short trip planned for this afternoon.

I totally agree Ralph. We do make a lot of short trips, but once or twice a month we take a 2 hour highway (55mph) trip. The S/S still doesn't work after these trips. I "think" the problem is that the battery is not fully 100% charged. I have a dash cam setup in the car and it detects motion while parked, even in the garage. I have a "gizmo" that monitors the battery draw of the dash cams and turns them off automatically if it drops below 12V. Someday, I'm going to hook up my "trickle" charger and bring the battery up to 100% and see what happens. As of right now, I'm unable to find a mechanic who is willing to risk using forscan to turn it off permanently. I did however find this video but after watching and searching Amazon, I found many items pertaining to "forscan". I saw prices of 30-40 dollars which I would be willing to spend IF I knew which item/items to purchase.
 
I totally agree Ralph. We do make a lot of short trips, but once or twice a month we take a 2 hour highway (55mph) trip. The S/S still doesn't work after these trips. I "think" the problem is that the battery is not fully 100% charged. I have a dash cam setup in the car and it detects motion while parked, even in the garage. I have a "gizmo" that monitors the battery draw of the dash cams and turns them off automatically if it drops below 12V. Someday, I'm going to hook up my "trickle" charger and bring the battery up to 100% and see what happens. As of right now, I'm unable to find a mechanic who is willing to risk using forscan to turn it off permanently. I did however find this video but after watching and searching Amazon, I found many items pertaining to "forscan". I saw prices of 30-40 dollars which I would be willing to spend IF I knew which item/items to purchase.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pX2XrCpDSRg
I just read some of the shop manual detail for this feature on my 2018. Low SOC is mentioned as a factor in not engaging S/S. Problem is that I have not found a number mentioned. Somewhere I vaguely recall 80% but that may be incorrect. I do know that I was a bit surprised when I charged the battery using my new Diehard trickle with wifi but as I mentioned, I discovered that the OBD II SOC reading was at about 60% while my Diehard said 100%. My conclusion is that the software on the Diehard charger is not correct. MY OTHER CONCLUSION, is that while this is a seemingly simple deal on the surface is is very complicated.
 
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I just read some of the shop manual detail for this feature on my 2018. Low SOC is mentioned as a factor in not engaging S/S. Problem is that I have not found a number mentioned. Somewhere I vaguely recall 80% but that may be incorrect. I do know that I was a bit surprised when I charged the battery using my new Diehard trickle with wifi but as I mentioned, I discovered that the OBD II SOC reading was at about 60% while my Diehard said 100%. My conclusion is that the software on the Diehard charger is not correct. MY OTHER CONCLUSION, is that while this is a seemingly simple deal on the surface is is very complicated.
I believe the vehicle has to be off for something like 8-12 hours before the battery SOC is updated in the computers. If you wait for the battery charger to finish and go and check in the car right away it probably still shows the previous SOC. Gotta leave it on overnight without touching anything and check in the morning.

Also, this is important, make sure you are not bypassing the current sensor on the negative terminal with your battery charger or it won't be updating the SOC properly. If you clip to the batt + and the remote - jump start post on the strut tower it will work properly, but if you attach the negative directly to the battery terminal it won't read the current properly. If you install a permeant charging lead make sure you use a body ground.
 
I believe the vehicle has to be off for something like 8-12 hours before the battery SOC is updated in the computers. If you wait for the battery charger to finish and go and check in the car right away it probably still shows the previous SOC. Gotta leave it on overnight without touching anything and check in the morning.

Also, this is important, make sure you are not bypassing the current sensor on the negative terminal with your battery charger or it won't be updating the SOC properly. If you clip to the batt + and the remote - jump start post on the strut tower it will work properly, but if you attach the negative directly to the battery terminal it won't read the current properly. If you install a permeant charging lead make sure you use a body ground.
I was already aware of the connection procedure and have been doing it that way from the start. "Positive terminal and negative on the car frame".

I will check your suggestion for the time the car's SOC registers take and report back. Thanks.
 
Took my 2017 Titanium in today for auto stop start not working. They changed the battery and all is well so far!!
George
Just curious. I am assuming that your car is under warranty and the replacement was for free?? In any event, did you get any specific feedback on the condition of your battery. I took my 2016 into the dealer for battery replacement a while back. They said it would be replaced if it tested bad. It was. Not old, just bad. Wondering what your situation was.
 
It is under factory warranty. They showed me a sheet of paper from the battery test that had an arc on itand at the bottom of the left side it just said "Replace"
George
 
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My S/S Is Now Working

I did what "ralph 7up" suggested. I put my charger on the battery overnight and took a test drive. My S/S worked :( Despite the fact that I hate this S/S with a passion, I hate being stuck with a dead battery even more. The dealer replaced my battery at no charge, under warranty.

Can someone please give me some information on what I need to buy to be able to use Forscan to turn S/S off permanently? Thanks :)
 
I did what "ralph 7up" suggested. I put my charger on the battery overnight and took a test drive. My S/S worked :(
Despite the fact that I hate this S/S with a passion, I hate being stuck with a dead battery even more. Dealer replaced my battery no charge, under warranty. Can someone please give my some information on what I need to buy to be able to use Forscan to turn S/S off permanently? Thanks :)
Glad that worked for you. There are many threads on the board for Forscan. I would suggest you do a search. I dabbled a few years ago but never really felt comfortable. a key unanswered question in all of this is the S/S causing the bad battery to be replaced or did Ford get a batch of inferior batteries? My vehicle for battery replacement was a 2016 without S/S. Also, my understanding is that with S/S ford increased the batter CCA and also put in a heavier duty starter.
 
I did what "ralph 7up" suggested. I put my charger on the battery overnight and took a test drive. My S/S worked :(
Despite the fact that I hate this S/S with a passion, I hate being stuck with a dead battery even more. Dealer replaced my battery no charge, under warranty. Can someone please give my some information on what I need to buy to be able to use Forscan to turn S/S off permanently? Thanks :)


As the PP has stated. There are lots of threads on ForScan. There is also lots of information on the tool you will need. Search is your friend. :)
 
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